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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone,

It is pretty easy to see why most of us like to install a fender elim kit, or a tail tidy, as the stock one is huge and hideous. I personally did not want to spend $100+ on a kit, and I definitely didn't want to lose my factory turn signals. I also wanted something that I could easily return to stock, if ever need be, and I didn't like the look of the plate hanging from the rear fender over the tire. I have designed a bracket which relocates the license plate to in front of the rear tire, and uses factory hardware to attach it to the subframe. As far as I am aware, all Scramblers have the 2 bolts I utilize to attach the bracket to. It also uses the factory license plate light, and hardware, so it looks OEM. The hardest part of the install is removing the factory stuff, and re-routing the plate light wire.

A couple quick notes: These are 3D printed by myself on an Ender 3 using PLA.. As of right now, I have only designed the bracket for US plates. I could easily design a new bracket for other countries plates, but I do not have one on hand and would need measurements. Anyone that is willing to help me out here, PM me and we will work something out. Also, the plate is offset from the angle of the subframe by 10 degrees. If the general consensus is that this is not enough angle for clear viewing, I can up this to 15 or 20 degrees. The only items you would need to install this are hex keys, and then 2 bolts (and subsequent nuts) to attach the plate to the actual bracket. Bracket weighs ~ 40 grams.

Price is $25 + shipping.

Basic bracket, PLA.


Backside of bracket. Note the recessed portions which accept a nut, this makes it much easier to attach the plate.


Angle of the bracket. Offset 10 degrees.


Light and plate attached.


Attached to the bike using factory bolts.


Roughly 2 feet off the ground, and around 1-2 feet behind the bike.


Roughly 5 feet off the ground, and around 8-10 feet behind the bike. This is the angle at which most vehicles would see the plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Great product!

(Will this clear the DS rear shocks nitrogen reservoir?)
It most definitely should, but I cannot confirm 100% as I am running the stock rear shock. If I can find someone local who has one (or if someone wants to help), I'll throw the bracket and plate on to see if it clears.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I have now made 2 more versions, so there will be 3 options total.
There are 2 options available, as you can see below.

* 0 degree offset (flush with subframe)
* 10 degree offset (pictured)
* 20 degree offset (perpendicular to the ground) Doesn't work, hits tire.

Once I have them printed and test fitted, I will put the pictures up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
As it’s printed in PLA, how does this hold up to vibrations?
I guess we will find out. Its 5mm thick, 1.5mm wall thickness with 100% infill. From all of my test prints, it's very strong, especially with how light it is. I'm sure it's going to hold up better than the aluminum bracket I made, which left my plate dangling by the light wire and rubbing on the tire.

Also, the test prints revealed that I was under-extruding, which is why the quality looks MEH on them. I have turned up my multiplier by 4%, which means more plastic. If you look at some of the pictures, you can see how the individual passes aren't touching in some areas. This created various weak points. Now that I've got my extrusion multiplier dialed in, they should be even stronger.
 

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As an avid 3d print hobbiest are you willing to share an STL file?

My only worry about PLA would not be strength but rather heat resistance. PETG or ABS might be better for this particular use.

I've printed some super strong stuff with PLA.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As an avid 3d print hobbiest are you willing to share an STL file?

My only worry about PLA would not be strength but rather heat resistance. PETG or ABS might be better for this particular use.

I've printed some super strong stuff with PLA.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I plan on eventually printing these in ABS, however I do not have a place to put the printer to vent the fumes from ABS, that's why I'm only offering PLA at the moment. Once I move into a house in June/July, I'll start my ABS adventures. For this reason, and the fact that I spent almost 2 days printing and test fitting and tweaking, and that I can't keep you from selling printed versions of the STL file, I am going to have to decline. If you want to wait until I start printing in ABS, I'd be more than happy to print one for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This the 0 degree version. The plate is at the same angle as the subframe. I have the 20 degree version printing now.









 

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I plan on eventually printing these in ABS, however I do not have a place to put the printer to vent the fumes from ABS, that's why I'm only offering PLA at the moment. Once I move into a house in June/July, I'll start my ABS adventures. For this reason, and the fact that I spent almost 2 days printing and test fitting and tweaking, and that I can't keep you from selling printed versions of the STL file, I am going to have to decline. If you want to wait until I start printing in ABS, I'd be more than happy to print one for you.
No worries totally understand and figured that would be the answer. You should be able to print PETG without the need for venting and you'll get similar heat resistance.

I might just buy one of each since I really don't wanna wait. We'll see how long the PLA lasts against the engine heat.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
No worries totally understand and figured that would be the answer. You should be able to print PETG without the need for venting and you'll get similar heat resistance.

I might just buy one of each since I really don't wanna wait. We'll see how long the PLA lasts against the engine heat.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
How about this, you buy one and test it with PLA. If it fails, I'll reprint it in PETG (or eventually ABS) for no charge. That would 3 people so far running them: myself, you, and a guy in FL. I cannot rely solely on myself for testing, and the larger the pool is, the more accurate data I will have.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Another update here, the 20 degree bracket does not work. Under hard compression, it hits the tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update:

The bracket fits ALL Scrambler models except the 1100cc, the Desert Sled, and the Sixty-Two.

The 1100's have a different subframe and a different location for the tag, and the plate mount needs to house the turn signals.

The DS and the 62 have a 'subframe-extension' where the bracket bolts to, that hold the turn signals. My dealer was kind enough to lend me a stock one off of a Sixty-Two that I will be designing a bracket off of, but for now, the simple bracket listed above fits all models minus the 1100, the DS and 62.

Also, I have made some minor changes to both the 0 degree and the 10 degree brackets. I will post up pictures of the new designs.

Thanks.

Note : You CAN install the bracket on the DS and the 62 to relocate the tag, but it will be kind of pointless since the actual stock 'fender' is still hanging over the rear tire.
 

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Update:

The bracket fits ALL Scrambler models except the 1100cc, the Desert Sled, and the Sixty-Two.

The 1100's have a different subframe and a different location for the tag, and the plate mount needs to house the turn signals.

The DS and the 62 have a 'subframe-extension' where the bracket bolts to, that hold the turn signals. My dealer was kind enough to lend me a stock one off of a Sixty-Two that I will be designing a bracket off of, but for now, the simple bracket listed above fits all models minus the 1100, the DS and 62.

Also, I have made some minor changes to both the 0 degree and the 10 degree brackets. I will post up pictures of the new designs.

Thanks.

Note : You CAN install the bracket on the DS and the 62 to relocate the tag, but it will be kind of pointless since the actual stock 'fender' is still hanging over the rear tire.
What were the minor changes?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What were the minor changes?
I just realized I never uploaded pictures, that's my bad. I will have to print the 'new' 10° version, but I have a 0° on hand. I WILL post pictures later today.

Changes :
* 0° - thickened up the leading edge of the center of the bracket to make it stronger and less likely to flex.
* Added embossing on both variants to show the angle (literally says 0° or 10° on the bracket)

A super super minor change is within my slicer program, I am attempting to minimize the amount of stringing on the backside of the bracket, since it is an area above supports. Does not impact strength or anything, just doesn't look very nice and I would like to clean it up.
 

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I'd like one of the 10 degree offset! Tell me what I owe you for shipping to Colorado Springs 80919 and how I can get it to you! Love the idea and the price so I'm more than happy to be a test pig!!
 

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I got mine mounted and I'll have to grab pics. I reverse most of my worries about deformation from heat as it is a lot further back from the engine than I originally thought.

As someone who 3d prints a lot the print quality is great and it is really quite strong. We'll see how it holds up.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I got mine mounted and I'll have to grab pics. I reverse most of my worries about deformation from heat as it is a lot further back from the engine than I originally thought.

As someone who 3d prints a lot the print quality is great and it is really quite strong. We'll see how it holds up.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Great to hear! I've put roughly 200 miles on my bike since I put the bracket on, and it's holding well thus far.

Thanks for purchasing!
 
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