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That's the problem with USD forks, no castings in the legs to take a fork brace or fmg supports. I had something similar on the Marzocchis on my TR5T but the tyres were 3.00 at the most.
I hope your new stays work well, but I suspect that they will not have the torsional strength of a U shaped bracket.
I have very happy memories of riding a couple of early XTs, owned by a good friend, who tried to persuade me to swap my Triumph for one of them, but whilst they started easily from cold, they were pigs when hot (I said they needed a tickler on the carb, like my Amal) and I declined the offers, although liking the five speed box and the torque when winding up the engine on a loose surface.
 

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You may well be right, so I think I may remove the brackets from my bike and have them reinforced in the stress area, before proceeding with my SM fmg project.
 

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I had a look today at an Icon mudguard. It includes the brackets, directly in its shape. The main difference is that the mudguard is hold on two very different points : first one in the middle of the mudguard, like the Classic one, and a second point at the rear end of the mudguard. So, even if the brackets have got the same shape around the fork leg castings, the mudguard can't move forward & backward, due to this rear mounting point.

That may be, in fact the solution for the Classic mudguard : add on the actual bracket a third mounting point at the rear part of the mudguard. Using a flat blade screwed on the mudguard on one end and on the upper bolt of the original support on the other end. It can even be single blade, bent in a U form, going under the mudguard from one side to the other one.
 

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Last but not least, I had a look at the original supports and found a way to reinforce them in the region where they crack.

Just find a L profiled metal plate. Cut a 10 cm (approx.) piece. Apply it against the original mount in its lower part. Drill two 8 mm holes corresponding to the 2 mounting points in the fork leg casting. On the other face of the L profile, drill one hole somewhere above the region where the mount breaks. Drill also the mount at the same time. Then put a screw and a nut in this hole and mount back the modified support, with original both screws going thru the support and the L plate.

Doing so, the support will not be able to bent forward and backward and it shouldn't crack.

I will try this also, on mine, to see if the cracked zone extends or not.
 

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That's what I had in mind when I bought the alloy tubes, to use as additional brackets/ supports for the guard, just as was done with old British bikes. It may be possible to add something similar to the front of the fmg, but would then probably look like the proverbial dog's dinner.
 

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Hello

Last but not least, I had a look at the original supports and found a way to reinforce them in the region where they crack.

Just find a L profiled metal plate. Cut a 10 cm (approx.) piece. Apply it against the original mount in its lower part. Drill two 8 mm holes corresponding to the 2 mounting points in the fork leg casting. On the other face of the L profile, drill one hole somewhere above the region where the mount breaks. Drill also the mount at the same time. Then put a screw and a nut in this hole and mount back the modified support, with original both screws going thru the support and the L plate.

Doing so, the support will not be able to bent forward and backward and it shouldn't crack.

I will try this also, on mine, to see if the cracked zone extends or not.
I'm sure most Classic owners will be glad to learn how you go on with your modification: I was wondering whether it would be feasible to weld a small plate on the area in question to strengthen it.
 

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I'm sure most Classic owners will be glad to learn how you go on with your modification: I was wondering whether it would be feasible to weld a small plate on the area in question to strengthen it.
You could so, but to reinforce the support, you must link both faces : the face with 2 holes and the face turned 90° which cracks. In fact, the fact with 2 holts is cut very low. If it was going a little bit higher, it wouldn't allow the other face to bend. But, I'm afraid that adding some material on the face parallel to the fork tube will not allow the tube to go down without touching the support.
 

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Something like that could be, in fact, the simpliest solution to reinforce the support. Done in an aluminium L profile, 3 mm thick.

- the support and the new part (needs to be drilled, finished and painted), it fills the gap over the holes, to link both faces where it cracks :


- the new part in place, on the support :
 

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Some news of my mudguard support story : it will be changed under warranty. Of course, if the part looks the same than actual one, I will add something to strengthten it immediately, otherwise it will break in the future.

As soon as I'll get the replacement parts, I'll let you know.

Meanwhile, my homemade support seems to resist, although the mudguard still shakes a lot.
 

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Some more news : my homemade brackets are also cracking... Not surprizing as they are really thin and I've bent them, so the metal has been stressed. I've mounted back the original ones, while waiting for the replacement parts.
I will certainly build a second part like shown in my last pic, to reinforce the new supports... or I will add a rear support to copy the Icon mudguard support.
 

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Last news : I've received a pair of new supports, under warranty.

They are visually identical to the previous one. So, I've decided to build a pair of additional supports, fixed on the upper screw of the original one at one end and on the mudguard on the other end. They are fastened on the mudguard 4 cm behind the current attachement, so they pull the mudguard rearwards. I can't see any more movement of the mudguard, while driving, so I can hope the original support won't break any more.

Pics to come, when I'll have painted my new supports.
 

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I know, now it's too late, but I think it was best to fix the fender in a lower point .
For sure, but the additionnal parts would have been slightly more complex to build. There, they are quite radial for the mudguard, so they were easy to bend. With a lower fixation point, they would have required a 3D bending...
 

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For sure, but the additionnal parts would have been slightly more complex to build. There, their are quite radial for the mudguard, so they were easy to bend. With a lower fixation point, they would have required a 3D bending...
 

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For sure, but the additionnal parts would have been slightly more complex to build. There, they are quite radial for the mudguard, so they were easy to bend. With a lower fixation point, they would have required a 3D bending...
Hi Vincelp,

here is my thought
 
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