[FatalBert]

Does anyone know what the Fork Diameter on the 1100 is for Clip-On handlebars? I know the 800 is 51mm. If the 800 has forks that are 4mm less (41mm) in diameter than the 1100 (45mm) would it be safe to assume the clip-ons would need to be 55mm for the 1100?

Has anyone had firsthand experience with clip-ons on their 1100? I believe the 1100 sport has a different size fork as well?

TIA

 

[JustPlainBill0]

Not sure where you are located FatalBert, but in the U.S. the yellow tank 1100 is marketed as a "Standard". The Icon name is only used for an 800 model. But to your question, the upper tube (stanchion) diameter on the Standard 1100 Scrambler is 55 mm and that's the size clip on it would take. The Ohlins fork sliders used on the Sport model are 48 mm - presumably the stanchions would be 58 mm.

Before you spend the money on clip-on bars, consider that you will be leaned over the tank and will have to hold your head at an uncomfortable angle to see where you're going. Maybe not a problem on the race track, but while riding in traffic or on a long boring ride away from the city, it can be painful. Check out the ergonomics for an 800 Scrambler on www.cycle-ergo.com . For me at 5'10", 32" inseam, the forward lean angle is 18 degrees - meaning my neck angle would be about the same to keep my vision line level. Secondary issue is that the hydraulic hoses and wiring on the handlebars will be too long for the bars and if not shortened, will look cluttered.

 

[FatalBert]

Not sure where you are located FatalBert, but in the U.S. the yellow tank 1100 is marketed as a "Standard". The Icon name is only used for an 800 model. But to your question, the upper tube (stanchion) diameter on the Standard 1100 Scrambler is 55 mm and that's the size clip on it would take. The Ohlins fork sliders used on the Sport model are 48 mm - presumably the stanchions would be 58 mm.

Before you spend the money on clip-on bars, consider that you will be leaned over the tank and will have to hold your head at an uncomfortable angle to see where you're going. Maybe not a problem on the race track, but while riding in traffic or on a long boring ride away from the city, it can be painful. Check out the ergonomics for an 800 Scrambler on www.cycle-ergo.com . For me at 5'10", 32" inseam, the forward lean angle is 18 degrees - meaning my neck angle would be about the same to keep my vision line level. Secondary issue is that the hydraulic hoses and wiring on the handlebars will be too long for the bars and if not shortened, will look cluttered.

Thanks for this info. I was intending to get a lower seat and maybe get a 2.5" rise on the clip-ons (similar to the 800 cafe racer). I know this will put me in a sportier (more straining) position. However I do not plan to take long rides often. Most of my ride intervals will be 20 minutes or less. Occasionally I will ride up to an hour or so. And a large part of me getting the bike was for it to be a project bike. Nothing major but modifications here and there. Still in planning...

 

[FatalBert]

Just for everybodies information. I have ordered the Woodcraft Clip-On handlebars with 2.5" risers for my Standard 1100.

The 55mm is the correct size. I originally ordered the standard length handlebars and they wound up being too short because the brake and clutch assemblies do not clear the bar sleeve on the risers.

Woodcraft lists the standard handlebar length as 12 inches, which would have been sufficient had the actual length of the handlebar itself (the metal) been 12 inches. The metal part was actually 10.75 inches plus the plastic bar ends reportedly adding up to 12" (even though I measured something like 11.75" end to end).

I called Woodcraft about this and they are sending me the XL bars which are 13.5" (according to them) free of charge, which was really good on them. Even though it was an inconvenience to me, I appreciate that they are honoring their customer and I will be recommending them in the future because of this.

So, if you are looking for clip-ons on your 1100 standard or special (not sport), you will need the 55mm along with XL (13.5") bars.

 

[OceanScrambler]

Is there enough clearance between the tank and the clip-on fork clamp, where it actually wraps around the fork? I guess the fork stops could always be adjusted, but was wondering if it could be done without; the clearance currently is really tight there.

Thanks for sharing!

 

[FatalBert]

Is there enough clearance between the tank and the clip-on fork clamp, where it actually wraps around the fork? I guess the fork stops could always be adjusted, but was wondering if it could be done without; the clearance currently is really tight there.

Thanks for sharing!

I was able to get the fork clamps on by starting low and sliding up. The right side fork was problematic as the plate and screw for the headlight connector was in the way, I simply loosened the nut with a deep socket and that let me shimmy right past it and I was able to tighten it down again after. Note, its wasn't easy and since the fork tube gets wider from the top down you will most likely get some buff finish scratches (not deep) while trying to shimmy it up. Once it is up there it is easy to rotate as needed. I was skeptical at first, but it wound up working out.

 

[OceanScrambler]

Thanks for the update, your observations are really helpful.

Are you going to drill the new bars to allow the control locator pins to fit, or will you be grinding down the pins inside of the controls?

At full lock, do you think there will be any clearance issues in the area circled in red below?

Thanks!

 

[FatalBert]

Thanks for the update, your observations are really helpful.

Are you going to drill the new bars to allow the control locator pins to fit, or will you be grinding down the pins inside of the controls?

At full lock, do you think there will be any clearance issues in the area circled in red below?

Thanks!

View attachment 41805

I will be drilling a new hole for the pins to fit.

If you're talking about the clamps themselves hitting the tank, they are fine, they do not hit the tank anytime from lock to lock. But then again my lock out screws came from the dealer on the max setting (shortest lock to lock). I guess it would depend on how yours are set. But TBH I didn't see enough available space to change it from what it was set to from the dealer (at the max setting). I don't see why yours would be set differently unless you're literally touching the tank already then you will probably have to extend your lockout screws a little to fit these.

If you're talking about the bars, the clamps can be rotated so the distance of the bar from the tank is adjustable. I checked and made sure when the bars are in the ballpark of safe from lock to lock that nothing is touching and no cables are pinched. 2 of the 4 tightening bolts on the clamp can be reached in this position the other 2 of the 4 are not reachable (buried behind the fork between the light and fork). My plan is to tighten those all the way down with blue loctite, then leave the front bolts loose for any further adjusting before tightening them down fully and do blue loctite on everything. The instructions say to tighten them evenly but I dont see any other way to do it.

Also, I have to find a reliable way to make both sides identical in positioning. I think they have a tool for that but I recall there being some lifehack way to do it. I need to research it up.

 

[Skippy'73]

Looking pretty cool. Wonder what you will do with the left over holes from the bar clamp on the crown plate.

 

[FatalBert]

Looking pretty cool. Wonder what you will do with the left over holes from the bar clamp on the crown plate.

I've only put a little bit of thought into it. But 2 things I am thinking of are either a gauge relocator or cellphone bracket.

 

[Skippy'73]

I've only put a little bit of thought into it. But 2 things I am thinking of are either a gauge relocator or cellphone bracket.

Relocating the instruments woul be pretty cool imo.

 

[FatalBert]

Relocating the instruments woul be pretty cool imo.

I'm wondering if the rizoma 800 gauge relocator can be used.

RIZOMA Gauge Bracket: Scrambler 800

 

[Skippy'73]

I'm wondering if the rizoma 800 gauge relocator can be used.

RIZOMA Gauge Bracket: Scrambler 800

I can't tell you that but I did have the billet bottem speedo cup on my 800 and this also fits on the 1100. It looks like the Rizoma speedo relocator replaces the bottem cup so it might work. But I also recall that somebody already gave it a try and had a hard time with it but I don't know if he had the standard bars still on.

 

[Skippy'73]

Found it. Doesn't seam to work or you'll have to find a solution for the cables.
https://www.scramblerforum.com/threads/scrambler-1100-parts.29349/page-14#post-232935

 

[FatalBert]

Found it. Doesn't seam to work or you'll have to find a solution for the cables.
https://www.scramblerforum.com/threads/scrambler-1100-parts.29349/page-14#post-232935

I wonder if it makes a difference that he is attempting to relocate with the stock handelbars still attached to the triple clamp vs me mounting it on the triple clamp in place of the handlebars. I will need to take a look when I get home to see what is up with the cabling.

 

[Skippy'73]

I wonder if it makes a difference that he is attempting to relocate with the stock handelbars still attached to the triple clamp vs me mounting it on the triple clamp in place of the handlebars. I will need to take a look when I get home to see what is up with the cabling.

I was wondering the same thing. You might be able to route the cable from the front over the tripple clamp and then make a cover or something.

 

[FatalBert]

I was wondering the same thing. You might be able to route the cable from the front over the tripple clamp and then make a cover or something.

Honestly I'm looking at the rizoma relocator and seeing that it is $180 just seems ridiculous to me for a cup that screws into the triple clamp. Id be willing to pay upwards of $50 for such a thing but $180 is just ridiculous. They themselves sell a kit with clip ons clamps, handlebars, and a relocator for a similar price. The relocator alone shouldn't be the same price.

Therefore, I am looking into a custom solution to do it myself. I'm honestly browsing 3D printers so I can make a damn relocator bracket and cup myself, in the color I want and in plastic for weight savings :happy8:

 

[Skippy'73]

Honestly I'm looking at the rizoma relocator and seeing that it is $180 just seems ridiculous to me for a cup that screws into the triple clamp. Id be willing to pay upwards of $50 for such a thing but $180 is just ridiculous. They themselves sell a kit with clip ons clamps, handlebars, and a relocator for a similar price. The relocator alone shouldn't be the same price.

Therefore, I am looking into a custom solution to do it myself. I'm honestly browsing 3D printers so I can make a damn relocator bracket and cup myself, in the color I want and in plastic for weight savings :happy8:

Yeah those Rizoma prices are pretty steep and I think it won't be to hard to fabricate some kind of solution yourself. Might not even have to have a cup ad deep as the original underneath it wich could give even more mounting posibilities.

 

[BiKenG]

As fork diameters are being discussed, could someone let me know what is the diameter of the (1100's) outer fork tube at the bottom yoke/triple clamp?

 

[FatalBert]

As fork diameters are being discussed, could someone let me know what is the diameter of the (1100's) outer fork tube at the bottom yoke/triple clamp?

If you're asking what diameter you need for clip-ons it is 55mm for the 1100.