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No way should the starter be able to move the bike with the clutch disengaged. There must be severe clutch drag to cause this. I'd expect that you must find it very difficult to select neutral too.
The only adjustment available on the clutch is the lever free play which should be about 2 to 3 mm. If it is substantially more than this the plates may not be lifting enough to free properly, causing the dragging you're experiencing. If the free play is within spec then the problem is in the cutch itself.
 

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Like a brake on a bicycle I can wind the clutch cable adjuster so that the cable is longer or shorter. longer: more slack when not pulling lever, more likely clutch is clamped.
Shorter: no free play and more like clutch might slip. Right?

As of now, I have to let the clutch lever out a full inch, before there is any bite felt. The bite point feels right, it is about the middle, not at one extreme or the other.

All my clutch drag (and starter drag) problems, with lever pulled, are there when the bike is cold.. As soon as I ride a bit, the bike is easier to push in gear with clutch in, and the starter doesn't labor (or move the bike!).
You shouldn't be adjusting the cable for where the bite point "feels" right, you should be adjusting it to the specified free play of 2 - 3mm, about 1/8" of an inch. As long as there is free play it won't slip unless the plates are worn. If there is too much free play it will drag, which will also lead to premature wear of the plates because they are not clearing at full lift.
 

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I can only assume then that the drag is caused by the oil being cold since it vanishes when the engine is warm. Maybe you should just make sure it is in neutral before operating the starter when the engine is cold. You should ask your dealer to check it since the bike will still be under warranty.
 
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