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Discussion Starter #1
After feeling some vibration from the front brake, I began to think the front rotor had warped.

Took it into Ducati Lincoln who confirmed and placed a warranty claim. Interestingly they pointed out that badly adjusted aftermarket levers can sometimes cause problems but not to this extent.

I was told that if levers have no free play, the force of the air at higher speeds can apply small amounts of front brake or pull the clutch. To me, that sounds like the biggest load of rubbish but wondered if anyone else has come across that before?

I'm worried that overheating disks could be a common problem, it seems I'm not the only one to be unlucky,
 

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A much more likely scenario would be one in which the fitting of the aftermarket lever prevented the brake from being completely disengaged, therefore building up heat and warping the disk.

I've actually seen this happen.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
A much more likely scenario would be one in which the fitting of the aftermarket lever prevented the brake from being completely disengaged, therefore building up heat and warping the disk.

I've actually seen this happen.
I agree, that would be a perfectly reasonable statement but they tried to make out that me not leaving more than a tiny bit of slack could have contributed. I prefer having no 'dead zone' So I get a more instant brake response and slightly quicker shifts. The thought that the wind could depress the levers is kind of laughable to me though...

Either way, just looking forward to a new disk, to get rid of this vibration. Do you know if it's a wise idea to change the pads at the same time? I don't know if pads and disks wear together in the same way chain and sprockets do.
 

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My rotor warped sometime around 1000 miles (all oem parts and levers). It's being covered under warranty, but I've been waiting for a replacement for almost 6 weeks. It's insanely annoying.
 

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My rotor warped sometime around 1000 miles (all oem parts and levers). It's being covered under warranty, but I've been waiting for a replacement for almost 6 weeks. It's insanely annoying.
I was quoted about a week for the claim to be accepted and the part should be dispatched at the same time. I'm guessing it's easier to get hold of parts here in Europe.
Interestingly I can see a replacement rotor on US Ebay for about $100, so they are around...
EBC Standard Brake Rotor MD2002 for 2015 Ducati Scrambler Classic Applications eBay

Without spending some time on it, I couldn't find out if the scrambler shares it's rotor with any other bike. I've heard it mentioned that the Scrambler front brake is just half of the 899 Panigale setup.
 

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Do you know if it's a wise idea to change the pads at the same time? I don't know if pads and disks wear together in the same way chain and sprockets do.
Not to the extent that if you change one you change the other, the cost of new pads would be eye watering if you had to replace discs as well.

Jerry
 

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Not to the extent that if you change one you change the other, the cost of new pads would be eye watering if you had to replace discs as well.

Jerry
Technically you should always replace pads when you replace rotors but not necessarily the other way around.

There is a special bedding material just at the very beginning of the pads that is supposed to prep the surface and help bed-in pads but if you're worried or anal about it, best case is to have fresh cross-ground rotor to help as well.

Rotors only technically need replaced when they reach the wear limit, which should be measured with a micrometer.

Also, just as an FYI, rotors don't really warp. I could go through the detailed explanation but if you are interested, here's a good link.

TL;DR: Rotors don't warp, don't hold the brakes on after you've stopped - especially if they're toasty.
 

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Also, just as an FYI, rotors don't really warp. I could go through the detailed explanation but if you are interested, here's a good link.

TL;DR: Rotors don't warp, don't hold the brakes on after you've stopped - especially if they're toasty.
I only read the first paragraph of that because I'm lazy, but my rotor is actually warped. They measured it and the service tech came up and said exactly how many hundredths of an inch it's warped by. I don't really how much, but he was impressed and commented that it must be really pulsating. So yes, they can and do warp.
 

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I can tell you didn't read it ;)

I should specify. Brake rotors don't warp from heat or extreme usage. If the caliper isn't aligned or some more severe issue occurs, that's when you get warpage. Cementite on the other hand builds up and causes runout which causes pulsing in the brakes. It happens when you leave a pad pressed on a hot rotor.
 

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I can tell you didn't read it ;)

I should specify. Brake rotors don't warp from heat or extreme usage. If the caliper isn't aligned or some more severe issue occurs, that's when you get warpage. Cementite on the other hand builds up and causes runout which causes pulsing in the brakes. It happens when you leave a pad pressed on a hot rotor.
Yep, two separate issues with very similar symptoms.

Side note, it's hard not to hold your bakes at a stop unless it's flat. I frequently just hold my rear brake at stops, for no reason other than that's what I do. Reading what you've posted, it's probably the safest way to sit at a light since the rear brake doesn't build much heat.
 

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Yep, two separate issues with very similar symptoms.

Side note, it's hard not to hold your bakes at a stop unless it's flat. I frequently just hold my rear brake at stops, for no reason other than that's what I do. Reading what you've posted, it's probably the safest way to sit at a light since the rear brake doesn't build much heat.
Always good to keep your rear brake light on at a stoplight so the cager behind you doesn't drive straight into you before the light turns green (have seen that one happen to a guy on an F800GS right next to me...)
 

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Always good to keep your rear brake light on at a stoplight so the cager behind you doesn't drive straight into you before the light turns green (have seen that one happen to a guy on an F800GS right next to me...)
When I'm last in line at the light, I do a little tap-tap-pause loop on the rear brake until the car behind me stops. The motion is much more visible than a steady light.

Started doing that after I saw a video of someone getting pushed under a truck with their bike, spilling gas, and catching fire.

I also leave a two-length gap and point the bike toward the shoulder so if I'm rear ended (slow enough) I may be pushed aside rather than pinned between two cars. Every little bit helps.
 

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I'm not sure if my front disk is warped or not but when i brake in slow speed with front brake (long light touch braking) like stopping to trafficlights, it feels sometimes a little bit odd. Like a bit jerky. Is it a abs feature and normal? Tried to look and disk looks straight and brake pads looks fine.
 

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I was wondering the same thing recently - I've felt what feels like a pulsating or oscillation from the front brake on several occasions, mine has been at variable speeds but it's not all the time? I will ask the dealer to have a look. If ABS is anything like a car, I would have thought it will be a little jerky but shouldn't be coming into play at a light touch or at slow speed?
 

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ABS is not active and is undetectable unless your tire locks up. If it's pulsating during normal braking, something is up with your brakes. It should be smooth and progressive.
 

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I'm at 2750 miles and my brakes feel good. ABS only kicks in when I've locked the wheels. The heat hardening thing is news to me, but gives me one more thing to be OCD about :) For years I didn't know that having the clutch lever pulled in wears the clutch plates out in a car or motorcycle, but it makes sense when you understand what's happening. So now I sit in neutral at stop lights. I usually don't have any heat built up on my brakes when riding in the city though because you have to ride so slow.
 

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For years I didn't know that having the clutch lever pulled in wears the clutch plates out in a car or motorcycle, but it makes sense when you understand what's happening. So now I sit in neutral at stop lights.
I'm always in gear at a stop. If something happens, I'd rather be ready to boogie and get out of the way. I'll live with any potential premature clutch wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm not sure if my front disk is warped or not but when i brake in slow speed with front brake (long light touch braking) like stopping to trafficlights, it feels sometimes a little bit odd. Like a bit jerky. Is it a abs feature and normal? Tried to look and disk looks straight and brake pads looks fine.
That is exactly the same sensation I had.
I could not detect a fault either, I went around the disc with a micrometer (fairly quickly) and didn't spot a difference.

The dealer took 20 minutes to confirm the disk was DANGEROUSLY misshaped and submitted a warranty claim immediately.

The issue was severe enough that the dealer advised it would currently fail an MOT. Very worrying and it seems like it could be a problem a few of us are going to have.

I'm not too hard on the brakes but it seems they are very vulnerable to those of us who use the front like a hand brake. I did the same with my last bike and never had a problem, so potentially a weakness of the single disk setup?
 
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