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DIY Oil Change Walkthrough

118584 Views 123 Replies 53 Participants Last post by  struv
Hopefully this will help people decide if they want to change their own oil or not.

A few thoughts of my own about doing this and the things I encountered that bothered me a bit: Removing the exhaust requires a bit of finesse because you don't want to put undue stress on any part of the pipes. Having proper tools to do this will make your life easier and won't damage the bike. Ducati oil filters (and aftermarket ones) like to leak and you need to put them on tighter than other bikes. If you don't have a good way to put the filter on tight, beware. The factory torque applied to the side plug that covers the mesh filter and the torque applied to the mesh filter was excessive. To the tune of about 100 foot pounds. You WILL need a 1/2" breaker bar and 14mm socket to remove them. An L shaped Allen wrench will not work without a cheater bar.

OK, that's it. Everything else was straightforward mechanic 101 stuff. Have your bike somehow upright. I use a front wheel chock stand. You may opt to use a paddock stand on the back wheel or some other means.

Start by removing the 5mm hex bolt on the left side of the muffler that attaches it to the hanger. There are two top hat shaped metal spacers in either side of the rubber mount. Don't lose them. In my case they never came out.



Remove the spring that holds the muffler onto the exhaust pipe. I used Vise Grips to remove and reinstall all of my springs. There's probably a proper tool to do this, so if you have one, use that instead.



NOTE: You may want to put a piece of masking tape on the aluminum heat shield of your muffler OR remove it from the muffler so you don't scratch it. I didn't scratch mine, but it was a tight fit removing the bolt here.

Remove the 5mm hex bolt from the right side of the muffler and be ready to support the muffler with your hand. I was wearing leather gloves because the bike was still warm and the muffler was HOT.



Use finesse to wiggle the muffler back and away from the exhaust pipe. It's a double wall pipe fit, so it may be a bit stubborn. Don't bend it back and forth. Sit the muffler aside and collect those metal top hat spacers from the rubber mounting point on the right side so you don't lose them.



Remove the two springs from the exhaust collector pipe section. Note that they are two different lengths. The one closest to you is shorter than the one closer to the engine. I used a rubber tipped hammer to tap (gently) on the upper section to release the collector. This wasn't difficult or stubborn in my case.



If you have installed a belly pan or if it came with the bike, you need to remove it as well as the bracket that lives on the right side of the engine. Point A signifies the 4mm hex screw you need to remove to remove the bracket. The other bolts holding on the belly pan are also 4mm.



Here's what we're after. Oil filter A and mesh filter plug B.



Now get ready to drain the engine oil into a suitable catch pan. There will be 3+ Quarts / Liters of oil splashing out almost immediately, so prepare yourself. Make note that the drain plug is in the middle of the engine. I've marked it in the photo. Don't remove either of the two other plugs. This plug is 5mm hex and I used a 3/8" socket on a ratchet rather than my T handled hex driver.



Let the oil drain. It probably won't ever stop trickling out. Make sure not to lose the copper washer for the drain plug. Mine stayed stuck to the engine and I reused it. You may opt to use a new one if you're a stickler for perfection and want to safeguard against possible leaks. Examine your oil plug which has a magnet on it. Mine had some metal shavings on it which is to be expected.



Remove the oil filter and drain that oil into the drain pan. If you have the factory Ducati oil filter remover tool, use that. I just used a set of oil filter pliers and didn't have any issues. They only worked because I had the exhaust system removed. Not every oil change requires checking the mesh filter on the side of the engine, so you don't have to normally remove the exhaust.



Remove the mesh filter cover plug. It's 14mm hex and I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar with a hex socket on it. It was installed very tight. Make note that there's a thin nickel washer that seals the plug to the engine.



Sit the plug and washer aside and use the same 14mm socket to remove the mesh filter housing itself. It's also installed very tightly. I don't recommend putting either of these items back onto the bike so tightly. I also installed my new oil filter. K&N 153 does fit, but NOTE: It is longer than OEM and the nut on the bottom adds further length. My belly pan is now resting solidly against the oil filter. It doesn't seem to be an issue, but make note of it. Also make note that the Ducati engines seem to prefer the oil filter to be on TIGHTLY, otherwise the filter will leak. Upon refilling the oil and starting the bike, it was leaking so I had to tighten the oil filter more than I thought I would have to.



My mesh filter had a few chunks of unknown debris on it. Nothing worrisome, but I did take the time to clean it carefully and completely for the reinstall.





My oil looked a bit scary. Like a human brain sitting in the oil pan. Lots of metal shavings that look like brass to me. I've kept the oil in a clean container to possibly be sent to an oil analysis firm. I presume this is normal, but I'm not sure, having never owned a new motorcycle in my life.



Now that you have your oil filter in place, the mesh filter and associated cap refitted, and the oil drain plug back in place... Reassemble the exhaust system. It took a bit of finesse to get everything refitted and get the muffler back into place safe and sound. Fill the bike with oil. I'd recommend something like Motul 7100 10W40 fully synthetic. Fill the bike to the full mark.



Start the bike and watch the oil filter for leaks. Mine leaked. I had to tighten the oil filter more to stop it from leaking. (It has not leaked since I did it, 100 miles ago.) Once you're satisfied that the bike is building oil pressure and that it's running right, shut the bike down and let the oil level settle. Add oil to the proper full mark.



Finally, finish by putting the belly pan back on and you're done. Also think about the fact that your dealer may charge you 300 dollars to do all of this, but it may make sense to give you the peace of mind that it was done properly and that you didn't have to purchase all of the tools I already own :)
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Hello

Thanks a lot for this DIY manual !

I just can't see the interest to dismount the exhaust. The oil filter can be reached without dismounting anything, I have had to screw it when I've seen some oil leaks and I could do that without touching my exhaust.
Same thing for the oil drain bolt which can be removed without removing the exhaust.

When I'll do this myself, I won't dismount the exhaust, for sure.

About the used oil state, I think it's normal for a new bike. It's quite usual that some metallic parts can be found in the filter and in the oil, these are the results of the break-in action. What would be abnormal, would be to find an increasing number of such parts during the next oil replacements. This should decrease.
Does anyone have the exact volume of oil used? I had my first oil change at 1000km and was billed 3 Liters of oil. Then I had my second oil change at 4000km (earlier than the required by Ducati) and was billed 4 Liters of oil. But the gave me the unused oil which showed they only used 3.1 Liters of oil.
I'll keep better tabs when I change it next, but just over 3L sounds right.

Sarah
I am doing this this weekend, and i think i own just about every type of oil filter removal tool out there ! The Scrambler oil filter access doesn't look too bad, if i'm honest. Seen worse.
OP you should edit and mention in the original post, that it is imperative that you DO NOT follow the workshop manual torque settings of 42nm (32 fr lb) for the oil drain plug. Not the big one with the 14mm bolt, but the smaller allen one on the underside.

It's apparently a misprint for the older type 22mm bolts, whereas our scramblers have a 12mm bolt.. Anyway i like to torque things according to spec, so i foolishly followed the 32ft lb, and it just sheared the bolt.

Best off not using a torque wrench and going snug, and a little more, and calling it good ! Otherwise this will happen !

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OP you should edit and mention in the original post, that it is imperative that you DO NOT follow the workshop manual torque settings of 42nm (32 fr lb) for the oil drain plug. Not the big one with the 14mm bolt, but the smaller allen one on the underside.

It's apparently a misprint for the older type 22mm bolts, whereas our scramblers have a 12mm bolt.. Anyway i like to torque things according to spec, so i foolishly followed the 32ft lb, and it just sheared the bolt.

Best off not using a torque wrench and going snug, and a little more, and calling it good ! Otherwise this will happen !

Man that picture hurts.. it's not about the extra bucks spent in replacement plug & oil. But the frustration and time lost riding.
Man that picture hurts.. it's not about the extra bucks spent in replacement plug & oil. But the frustration and time lost riding.
I won't be loosing any oil, or time. Well unless you count last night and today as time lost. I just went ahead and ordered a new Ducati plug with magnet, for $16. Problem is it won't be here til next week. So in the meantime, I just picked up a regular drain bolt, M12 1.50 pitch, that'll have to suffice til i get the ducati one. Which in reality, could just stay there til the next oil change.

I'm guessing the magnet carries out most of its usefulness in the first 600.

Thing is its hard to find a recessed M12 1.50, like the Ducati one, so to keep everything looking clean even under the bike, you've kinda gotta go with OEM.
Thanks for the warning, and the spec note on that aftermarket drain bolt.

Sarah
Back in business. Not as pretty as the OEM, but it'll do for now. $3 from your local autoparts store. I could of spend a couple of bucks more and got a magnetic one, and left it at, but i'd already ordered the OEM, besides its going to be hard to find a recessed M12 1.5 magnetic.

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Doc46: how much oil did you use to fill your bike? 3 Liters / Quarts exactly? Or more?
Bang on 3 liters. I took out both plugs, the big 14mm one, with the mesh, and the underside one that is now a 17mm M12 1.5 :adoration: Loads more oil comes out if you're doing both plugs, for whatever reason. Anyway, i was very careful in filling cos i know this was a topic of debate.

As i was filling, it got to the max mark, on 2 Liters, but knew this couldn't be. Turned the engine over a little and watched it go back to below the lowest, and kept doing this, til i was comfortable that i was at the absolute max on 3L. Which it is. Made sure i was on stands and level also. I also pre-filled the oil filter, not that it should really matter once you start the engine.
OP, thank you for the walk through. I performed my first oil change with your help. It all went quite smoothly.

As to the fill, it took nearly a full 4 quarts to have the fill level read right.

I may need to tighten the oil filter as it looks like a bit is seeping out. Will take a look again in the AM.
Be careful with the aftermarket magnetic plugs. I had a magnet come loose in my XR650L and ruin my motor.

Back in business. Not as pretty as the OEM, but it'll do for now. $3 from your local autoparts store. I could of spend a couple of bucks more and got a magnetic one, and left it at, but i'd already ordered the OEM, besides its going to be hard to find a recessed M12 1.5 magnetic.

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Be careful with the aftermarket magnetic plugs. I had a magnet come loose in my XR650L and ruin my motor.
I've got the proper one back in.. just used that while the proper one was on order.
Snug plus a little more? Couldn't have said it better myself. I only use a torque wrench on items that are 50lb/ft or greater, more or less. For items just like this on any car, truck or motorcycle, I am careful to feel about how much effort it took to remove and do the same. Get it snug and then just 1/16 more turn or whatever. I have NEVER had trouble in the past. Of course I call myself a "MAN" and not a "man" and think everyone should own at least one 400+ hp car for every motorcycle they own.

BTW, if I only remove the bottom drain bolt and rock the bike from side to side, will that get enough oil out of the engine? It has only been 1,000 miles since my first service, performed at the dealer by the way, and only want to change the oil before the long winter. It still looks clean in the sight window.

NC

OP you should edit and mention in the original post, that it is imperative that you DO NOT follow the workshop manual torque settings of 42nm (32 fr lb) for the oil drain plug. Not the big one with the 14mm bolt, but the smaller allen one on the underside.

It's apparently a misprint for the older type 22mm bolts, whereas our scramblers have a 12mm bolt.. Anyway i like to torque things according to spec, so i foolishly followed the 32ft lb, and it just sheared the bolt.

Best off not using a torque wrench and going snug, and a little more, and calling it good ! Otherwise this will happen !

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if anyone's tackling this any time soon, ducati omaha has the shell ultra 4t 15w50 plus filer & drain plug washer for $79.99 shipped

Ducati OEM Oil Change Kit (Manufacturer Recommended)
Someone on the other forum wondered about the third hex plug under the engine. It appears to be a way to drain your oil completely if you've got the bike sitting on the kick stand. At least as far as I can tell from this photo of the internals of the left side engine case. The plug has no magnet on it, but it does indeed appear to be a secondary drain spot if you don't have a way to center the bike while changing the oil.

What is the third plug then? Casting plug?
Thank you so much to the OP. I just performed my first service at 705 miles. You were spot on with all of your comments. Ducati must employ a gorilla to tighten that mesh screen. I tightened the oil filter, drank a beer, and cranked on it again. Here's hoping for no leaks. Surprised at how heavy the stock exhaust is on the desert sled. Also wondering why they used red thread lock on one of the exhaust hanger studs. ( exhaust exit side ) I put everything back with blue thread lock for good measure. Time for another brew and out to start her up and make sure all is well.
My experience with all my past belt driven Ducati engines is that if you use the proper Ducati OEM filters, they go on with a normal amount of torque and never leak. Aftermarket filters seem to be all over the map in this respect. So I stick with the OEM filters.
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