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I'm not sure what you mean? You take off the exhaust/cat and one more pipe, the single to double pipe that goes up. That's it. One extra pipe piece after the cat with exhaust comes off. It's only held with those springs and elbow grease. You have to wiggle it free.
 

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On the 2015 scrambler sixty2 there is no springs to remove from where the exhaust pipe blocks the side filter and the engine. See photo.

Thank you for your help on this. View attachment 40113
I see that now, ok...so in that case, I would ask the dealer how they do it. It looks like they need to unscrew the entire header pipe? I would ask before doing it yourself in case there's more to it.
 

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Am I seeing things correctly ? It looks like a joint held with springs below the foot-peg, if that’s the case then undo the two nuts at the cylinder head and pull the pipe forward after disconnecting the springs.
 

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Great walkthrough post. Was able to complete my first DIY oil change thanks to the post and a YouTube walkthrough as my secondary reference. I did run into few problems but at the end was mission accomplished. Here are my thoughts after this experience:
  • Filter mesh refused to come out. Did anyone run into that problem? I didn't want to damage the mesh so I left it as is. Since the mesh doesn't need to be cleaned every time, I will have the shop take a look at my next oil change.

  • The disassemble and assemble exhaust pipes part took half the time of the entire oil change. This wasn't mentioned here or other resources I found, putting the exhaust pipes back was quite difficult in my case. I had such a hard time attaching one of the springs back I eventually gave up. Again, going to ask the guys at the shop do it for me on my next visit.

  • I don't want to have to deal with removing and putting back the exhaust pipes but I like working on my bike. I will continue doing my own oil change minus the filter mesh part. So every now and then I will need to pay the shop a visit for a proper oil change.
I have a 2018 scrambler 1100 sport and I just did my 600 mile oil change but I don’t know how to reset the computer so every time I turn it on it flashes oil change needed. Any idea how to reset it? And you can get a spring tool for about $5 and it makes it so easy to put them on and take them off. No more bloody knuckles lol
 

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I have a 2018 scrambler 1100 sport and I just did my 600 mile oil change but I don’t know how to reset the computer so every time I turn it on it flashes oil change needed. Any idea how to reset it? And you can get a spring tool for about $5 and it makes it so easy to put them on and take them off. No more bloody knuckles lol
Dealer has to reset any major service interval or Rexxer unit.
 

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Potentially stupid but important question prior to my first oil change. To remove the filter and oil drain plug, if you are facing the oil glass. Do you pull the wrench towards you, clockwise, to remove? Is this considered reverse threaded ?
 

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Potentially stupid but important question prior to my first oil change. To remove the filter and oil drain plug, if you are facing the oil glass. Do you pull the wrench towards you, clockwise, to remove? Is this considered reverse threaded ?
No, it’s not reverse threaded.
When yo say ‘pull towards you’. That depends on where the spanner is pointing. If it’s pointing towards the rear tyre then don’t pull towards you. If pointing towards the front tyre then do.
Assuming your looking in from the right side, Simples.
 

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What is the final best recommended torque value for the mesh filter plug/cap? The one that uses the 14mm hex.

The manual says 38 NM, then someone in the thread earlier says to just use 20 NM like the smaller 5mm hex drain bolt. But it seems like since the mesh filter plug/cap is larger than the 5mm hex drain bolt, it should use a high value than 20 NM. But I don't want to try 38 NM on the mesh bolt and have it strip :apologetic::apathy:

Also, is there a torque value for the actual internal plastic mesh plug itself?
 

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Thanks for this write up with photos! My boyfriend just used it to do our first at home Scrambler oil change. :) Other than a minor panic about the oil type I had purchased (I posted a different thread), we do have one more oddity. The oil change was done with the bike on a Pitbull rear stand, and isn't terribly far off the ground but the tire definitely isn't touching. Once the oil was in at appropriate levels, we ran the bike, and when it was off, the oil went back to about the same level - seemed all good! Then this morning I went to ride it, and there is oil to the top of the indicator. How did MORE oil get in there after running it? I don't know if anyone else may have experienced this, would appreciate any thoughts. Thank you!
 

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Don't worry about it.
TBH you should have filled up with the bike on its tyres and held upright.
All you are seeing is that when the oil is hot, after a decent run, it expands and goes higher up the sight glass. When you look in the morning, (fully cold) it will have dropped down again.
 

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Thank you @stavely ! Actually, we did the oil change this past weekend, and I went to take the bike out this morning (cold, not having been run since Sunday), and the oil level was higher. That's why it seems so weird. How did MORE oil get in there?
 

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Getting ready to do a full oil and plastic mesh filter service...

Does anyone know the torque values for these:
  • Mesh filter cover (14mm female)? Is it 20 NM?
  • The plastic inner mesh filter plug itself?

I can hand tighten it, but knowing the safe recommend values would be a good reference.

Thank you in advance!
 

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Getting ready to do a full oil and plastic mesh filter service...

Does anyone know the torque values for these:
  • Mesh filter cover (14mm female)? Is it 20 NM?
  • The plastic inner mesh filter plug itself?

I can hand tighten it, but knowing the safe recommend values would be a good reference.

Thank you in advance!
I too would like to know the torque specs on the mesh filter cover and filter.
As for the drain plug and oil filter, this is from Ducati Omaha's oil change kit page:
Font Circle Terrestrial plant Flash photography Advertising
 

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Just check the figure for the toequeon the oil drain plug. There was an error in the manuals. Will try to confirm it as I have an old Monster manual somewhere.

UPDATE:
The 20 Nm figure is correct. The manual I have states 42 Nm which is incorrect!!! There are a couple of post about destroyed oil drain plugs from following the 42 Nm number. The older air-cooled Monster manual also gives a figure of 20 Nm.
 

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Silverluxe, great write-up thanks!

I just had my first service at 1000KM (600 Miles) on the weekend and it cost me $260. Definitely a job I would like to pickup myself.

One question though. Do you know how to reset the Service req'd message?

Regards
Mike
See my post in this How To's Forum dated August 16th "Resetting The Service Indicator"
 

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I just did my oil change; right at 6000 miles at the end of this season. I figured I'd check the strainer, so I had to pull the exhaust.

Spring clips are super easy and safe with a small pair of vice grips. Not sure what all the hesitation is about...

What was an absolute bastard was refitting the 2 into 1 section! I will NOT be doing that again. It took a good deal of flogging with a rubber mallet. What a pain!
 
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