[Kiwipete]

I was doing about 100kph pulled up at a intersection, it popped and stopped. Prpb never do it again just a weird thing that happened. I have a Termignoni exhaust on my Classic. Fitted by the dealer..

 

[nuttynick]

This is a pretty common issue, there's another thread about it somewhere. Mine seems better and has only done it three times in 1300 miles, all in the same circumstances as yours. I'm certain they just run very lean?

 

[Kiwipete]

That makes me a lot happy thanks mate... just something to be weiry of i guess.. it was funny as i usually would blip the throttle on change down which creates those little pops and this time i thought na i wouldn't and it popped and just blew the candle out. Anyway no biggy. in to the dealers on Monday for its 1000km service.. jeez they are a great looking bike. . I waited 25years for this bike after selling my 1976 z1000 that is how long between bikes it has been for me...

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[Rich]

Mine does the same . I habitually blip on change down now. I took it back to the dealer and ....no fault found. They blamed it on rider error as I have not ridden for 25 years.

 

[zswickliffe]

Mine does the same . I habitually blip on change down now. I took it back to the dealer and ....no fault found. They blamed it on rider error as I have not ridden for 25 years.

Don't settle for a dealership blaming you. This is an actual issue.

 

[Airsafari87]

I have just started to experience a similar problem with my bike.
2016 Full throttle with shotgun Termi's and no engine / exhaust mods (at the moment) currently sat at 1350 miles.

It only started happening a week or so ago at around the 1100 mile mark.
Approaching traffic lights or roundabouts as the lights are turning from red to green, maybe doing 1 or 2mph? Generally give it a quick blip of the throttle then pull away.
However the first time it happened I experienced the same thing as the OP, the bike died. Luckily I was quick re-firing it and pulling away before the car behind me ran in to the back of me.
It's happened about half a dozen times since, but did not stall those times, I just seem to get a momentary loss of power and slight jerkiness, which is a bit concerning when there is traffic behind me.

Normally I ride with earplugs in, so all I heard was the bang from the backfire. I couldn't locate where the bang was coming from, so I assumed that it was from the exhaust?
However.
I rode home last night and didn't have ear plugs in, and it backfired twice, and it definitely came from the airbox or around that area, NOT the exhaust.

The bike did have it's first service this week, and I mentioned the problem to the tech at the time, and asked if there was any map updates required. Apparently the map that was on the bike is the most up to date one, and has been on the bike since I first picked it up 6 weeks ago.

I doubt it's a problem that the dealer could ever replicate or diagnose, as it does seem to be a random occurrence. I've tried to force it to do it a few times now, just so I can try to figure out exactly where it's coming from, but it has been impossible to force it to backfire in that manner.

I do plan on fitting a SC-Projects CRT can in the near future, and will have the bike remapped at the same time. Hopefully that will sort out the ultra lean running and completely eradicate the problem?

I will report back.

Edit:
Just to add. This has happened at varying ambient air temperatures and weather conditions.
Last night it was approx 12 degrees C and hammering it down with rain.
It's happened at temps the same as above, and in dry weather also.
It's also occurred when the air temperature has been mid 20's too.

 

[jess.ryan]

I have just started to experience a similar problem with my bike.
2016 Full throttle with shotgun Termi's and no engine / exhaust mods (at the moment) currently sat at 1350 miles.

It only started happening a week or so ago at around the 1100 mile mark.
Approaching traffic lights or roundabouts as the lights are turning from red to green, maybe doing 1 or 2mph? Generally give it a quick blip of the throttle then pull away.
However the first time it happened I experienced the same thing as the OP, the bike died. Luckily I was quick re-firing it and pulling away before the car behind me ran in to the back of me.
It's happened about half a dozen times since, but did not stall those times, I just seem to get a momentary loss of power and slight jerkiness, which is a bit concerning when there is traffic behind me.

Normally I ride with earplugs in, so all I heard was the bang from the backfire. I couldn't locate where the bang was coming from, so I assumed that it was from the exhaust?
However.
I rode home last night and didn't have ear plugs in, and it backfired twice, and it definitely came from the airbox or around that area, NOT the exhaust.

The bike did have it's first service this week, and I mentioned the problem to the tech at the time, and asked if there was any map updates required. Apparently the map that was on the bike is the most up to date one, and has been on the bike since I first picked it up 6 weeks ago.

I doubt it's a problem that the dealer could ever replicate or diagnose, as it does seem to be a random occurrence. I've tried to force it to do it a few times now, just so I can try to figure out exactly where it's coming from, but it has been impossible to force it to backfire in that manner.

I do plan on fitting a SC-Projects CRT can in the near future, and will have the bike remapped at the same time. Hopefully that will sort out the ultra lean running and completely eradicate the problem?

I will report back.

I've had the same issue for about a month now... Usually when I down shift going into a turn and then am giving it throttle out of the turn is when it happens, which makes it super sketchy. No mods to the engine or exhaust. I just turned over 3,500 miles on the bike so first service was done a while ago. It's like the bike burps and sometimes burps and dies, or catches itself and keeps going. It jerks pretty hard. I've seen in another post someone posted theirs was doing something similar and the dealer couldn't replicate the problem. I ride mine daily so I can't afford to lose the bike for a week while they chase the issue and maybe don't even fix it.

It does it when I leave from a stop, like a light or a stop sign also, but I notice it more when the bike isn't completely warmed up yet. Although it happened once when I rode 50 miles on the freeway doing 90mph the whole time and when I exited the freeway and down shifted on the off ramp it died. I was quick with the clutch and kept rolling while I fired it back up.


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[Airsafari87]

I've had the same issue for about a month now... Usually when I down shift going into a turn and then am giving it throttle out of the turn is when it happens, which makes it super sketchy. No mods to the engine or exhaust. I just turned over 3,500 miles on the bike so first service was done a while ago. It's like the bike burps and sometimes burps and dies, or catches itself and keeps going. It jerks pretty hard. I've seen in another post someone posted theirs was doing something similar and the dealer couldn't replicate the problem. I ride mine daily so I can't afford to lose the bike for a week while they chase the issue and maybe don't even fix it.

It does it when I leave from a stop, like a light or a stop sign also, but I notice it more when the bike isn't completely warmed up yet. Although it happened once when I rode 50 miles on the freeway doing 90mph the whole time and when I exited the freeway and down shifted on the off ramp it died. I was quick with the clutch and kept rolling while I fired it back up.


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That does sound similar.
However yours sounds likes it's happening as your coming on to the throttle and staying on a constant throttle?
Mine has only done it as I have blipped the throttle and then come back on to it again to pull away. Almost as if I am too fast for it to react to my throttle inputs? ie quick blip, going straight on to a wider throttle opening to pull away.
It doesn't matter whether my bike is warm or cold, there is no correlation between temperature and the backfire.

I have just emailed a company that is very close to me that does do bike remaps. They also offer free bike dyno runs on saturday mornings by the looks of it. Hopefully I will be able to get in to see them soon and get a bit more of a definative answer as to what is going on with fuelling and mapping.
What I will probably get them t do is remap the standard bike, run it like that for a while and see what it's like. Then fit an exhaust and remap it once again to see what that does.

 

[vincelp]

Hello

It does it when I leave from a stop, like a light or a stop sign also, but I notice it more when the bike isn't completely warmed up yet.

I'm pretty sure that this problem is somewhat related to the fact that the air temperature measured by the bike to pilot the fule injection is always false. On my bike, it's always 4 or 5° C upper than real air temperature. It means that the EFI will received false informations for temperature and will generate an unappropriate amount of fuel for the real temperature.
This is certainly why those who fitted a Boosterplug that decreases slightly the measured temperature don't have the problem anymore.

My bike sometimes behave like yours, mainly when the air is cold and the bike is cold. Then, it disappears.

 

[jess.ryan]

This is certainly why those who fitted a Boosterplug that decreases slightly the measured temperature don't have the problem anymore.

I haven't looked in to the booster plug... I'll have to do some research on it and maybe make the purchase



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[MartinSK]

I am one of those who posted in the "other thread"
Problem is still there, dealer took my bike for test ride (50+km around town and out of town) and said that it is OK.
Contact Ducati customer service.. More reports means maybe some update to Race Termi which is suposed to be race us only so why make a lean map??
Anyway, I will have 12000km first desmo next week and I am going to try booster plug after that. (and probably MWR air filter installed too)
I tried SAI bypass that is mentioned here and on the other forum, but 0,5W 47ohm resistor just smoked and burned and in the end melted (just when I turned the ignition on, nothing else!) so it had to go out and I had to go to the dealer to have engine error deleted..

 

[pfmtrumpy]

My race Termi map is fine but the engine and air need to be warm. This engine design comes from the 70's and is aircooled so doesn't play well with 2016 emissions regs. Backfire from airbox is lean running or lean at that instant.
I questioned the 0.5w resistor when it was suggested last year. That's only 6 amp. Try a 5 watt. Should handle 60 amps.

 

[MartinSK]

My map is OK too. Only in a.m. situations is too lean hence my comment about making it richer since it is not "legal" anyway. Police in EU will look into exhaust and if they can see too far you have problem anyway

And no more fooling around with resistors for me. I just don't like to see yellow engine light on the speedo BTW when I disconnected baterry for 20+ minutes, it looked ok and the engine light came back on after several starts again.

Boosterplug should do the trick and if not I will return it and will live with the bike like it is now. (also 16T front sprocket ordered - because it looks like at least 50% of the time is on faster roads..)

 

[32mill]

In my experience, this is a Ducati thing. I previously had A 748. It also had the Ducati Fart problem. I even had mine set up on a rolling road and it still occasionally did it.
I have had other V twins, such as TL 1000, which never did it at all.
Just be prepared for it.

 

[Joooooooosh]

Don't settle for a dealership blaming you. This is an actual issue.

It's not really an issue.

Almost every bike I've ridden will do this at some point or another. Twin's seem especially prone to it. My Kawaski ER6 did it, as did many of the loan bikes I've ridden. Modern bikes just run very learn to meet emissions standards, I imagine that's the main cause.

As long as it's only very occasionally, it's nothing to worry about. Just clutch in and fire the bike back up.

 

[Mike Westall]

Many EFI maps have a "fuel cut RPM". If the throttle is closed with RPM above fuel cut, fuel will be cut to 0 to save gas, reduce emissions, and help compression braking. My theory is that if the throttle is closed and the clutch pulled in above fuel cut RPM, fuel flow gets cut and in the very short time it takes the engine to die (because the clutch is in) when RPM eventually triggers fuel flow it doesn't restart. I have another bike that does this and keeping the throttle cracked a little while in decel solves the issue 100% of the time.