That is huge improvement! Thank you for the update Shamone.
Front brake - Normal or not?
I'm steadily running the bike in so not braking hard, but had to stop quickly and thought the front brake was pretty poor compared to my other bikes including a 10 year old CBF500.
If I set the adjuster to 4 I can push the lever back to the grip with one finger. I never got a test ride so could someone check theirs to compare?
Video below;
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If I set the adjuster to 4 I can push the lever back to the grip with one finger. I never got a test ride so could someone check theirs to compare?
Video below;
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
21 - 40 of 51 Posts
That's as mine is. Sigh a breath of relief.
It is best if you can get the front brake cable below the level of the cylinder on the handlebar. I pull mine down and use a flexible bungee cord to hold it down while I bleed the front brake from the top. Has always worked.
Hi,
Sorry to revive this thread but my front brake is loosing pressure. At a red light, it brakes like when I purchased new (1st pull) but when holding the brake, my lever gets closer and closer to the grip. Btw, I took the lever off before.
My thought is : air in the system. What to do now? Zip tie method? Or bringing to the dealer? Since, I played with the lever and also changed my icon bar to a ft bar, will it be under warranty?
Thank you all
Sorry to revive this thread but my front brake is loosing pressure. At a red light, it brakes like when I purchased new (1st pull) but when holding the brake, my lever gets closer and closer to the grip. Btw, I took the lever off before.
My thought is : air in the system. What to do now? Zip tie method? Or bringing to the dealer? Since, I played with the lever and also changed my icon bar to a ft bar, will it be under warranty?
Thank you all
I had air in the brakes and it was the first symptom of the front disc warping, before I noticed any vibration. The dealer said that the disc was forcing the caliper in the wrong direction and letting air in...
Hello
The calliper haven't got a right and wrong direction. They must be able to go in and out : out when you brake, in when the seal pushes them back so the pads aren't always in tight contact with the disk. And, if air is coming in the circuit when the calliper moves, it means that brake fluid would go out when you brake and your brakes would be useless...
I would advise you to change your dealer, instead of your brakes...
How can they tell such silly stories...I had air in the brakes and it was the first symptom of the front disc warping, before I noticed any vibration. The dealer said that the disc was forcing the caliper in the wrong direction and letting air in...
The calliper haven't got a right and wrong direction. They must be able to go in and out : out when you brake, in when the seal pushes them back so the pads aren't always in tight contact with the disk. And, if air is coming in the circuit when the calliper moves, it means that brake fluid would go out when you brake and your brakes would be useless...
I would advise you to change your dealer, instead of your brakes...
A warped disc will push the pads (and pistons) back with the result that you get excessive travel at the lever next time you use the brakes. It's easy to think that air must be getting in.
It's possible I'm not translating (or interpreting) what they said correctly but in essence they were saying it was the warping of the disc that caused it and the problem has not happened again. Would dearly like to have a choice of dealers though but distance is a big factor there! Hopefully I won't have any more reason to go back with less than 10 months' warranty to go.
Hello
I already had a warped disc on my ST2, it didn't produce braking unefficiency. It produced vibrations, but the brakes were still efficient.
I agree with the fact that a warped disc may push back too much the pads and pistons, giving more travel to get them back on the disc. But, I don't agree for air. If the seal lets air come in, it will also let the brake fluid go out. If so, less fluid and some air would make your brakes entirely unefficient.A warped disc will push the pads (and pistons) back with the result that you get excessive travel at the lever next time you use the brakes. It's easy to think that air must be getting in.
I already had a warped disc on my ST2, it didn't produce braking unefficiency. It produced vibrations, but the brakes were still efficient.
Read what I said more carefully. I never said that air gets in. I know perfectly well that it doesn't.
Hello
Yes, sorry, I mis-read your post, english is not my native language.Read what I said more carefully. I never said that air gets in. I know perfectly well that it doesn't.
No problemHello
Yes, sorry, I mis-read your post, english is not my native language.
Shamone, If not already sorted consider this: Where a brake lever/pedal starts out firm but slowly depresses to "bottom out" that is usually a symptom of a master cylinder with weak piston seals. The continuous pressure on the lever/pedal causes the fluid to leak past the seals and allow the lever/pedal to depress. Eventually you will have a master cylinder failure as the seals get consistently weaker. This should not happen and don't believe the dealer if they tell you it is "normal" or "they all do that". Be certain to get a repair order form the dealer every time you bring the bike in for this issue. Eventually you will have established a pattern that should at least get you a new master cylinder under warranty once it fails. Try Ducati Customer Service but don't expect much if you are in the USA or Canada. Good luck and get it taken care of. Losing a front brake is not a good experience.
I bled the brakes a second time and all is well now
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I didnt see in this thread anyone mention the set screw in the brake lever that depresses the rubber actuator in the reservoir. My lever was collapsing a bit too much and I just turned the flat head screw a few turns to tighten up the travel, might help someone still having issues after a bleed.
Be super careful with this as it can result to the brake locking on. It has to allow the plunger to fully return home, which you can only see with the reservoir cover removed.I didnt see in this thread anyone mention the set screw in the brake lever that depresses the rubber actuator in the reservoir. My lever was collapsing a bit too much and I just turned the flat head screw a few turns to tighten up the travel, might help someone still having issues after a bleed.
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I feel like this can be said with almost every change on this bike :adoration: But just a few turns of the grub screw should be fine, I think if you turned it all the way in the brakes would always be on, ha.Be super careful
A few turns is all it takes to stop the pads fully retracting - It's a know issue with Ducati brakes and they can seem fine until they lock on the road, but I understand if you feel like I'm teaching you to suck eggs lol.I feel like this can be said with almost every change on this bike :adoration: But just a few turns of the grub screw should be fine, I think if you turned it all the way in the brakes would always be on, ha.
For anyone else reading this post in the future - If adjusted improperly the brakes could lock up or not work at all.
Locate the screw on the side of the lever, then remove the master cylinder cover and seal. SLIGHTLY pump the
brake or clutch lever (fluid will jump high if you operate it normally), and check for surface movement in the
reservoir. Continue to slightly screw in the adjuster and check for fluid movement on top until there is no more
(surface movement indicates that the return circuit is open, which is necessary to operate correctly). When you no
longer see movement when pulling the lever, back out the adjuster counterclockwise one full turn, and check for
movement again. You should be set then. Check for proper release and operation before heading around the block
just to be safe.
Where is this information from? The workshop manual doesn't even mention the screw adjustment.
I see a few ducati forum post where people have installed after market levers that caused problems but not OEMs.
This is the instructions for a BMW:
Front brakes still sticking. - BM Bikes & BM Riders Club
Turn grub screw until no Freeplay then one half turn more. Never over tighten or brake locking can occur(what you said).
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I see a few ducati forum post where people have installed after market levers that caused problems but not OEMs.
This is the instructions for a BMW:
Front brakes still sticking. - BM Bikes & BM Riders Club
Turn grub screw until no Freeplay then one half turn more. Never over tighten or brake locking can occur(what you said).
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It's not whether or not they are OEM or aftermarket levers - It's whether the setscrew has been misadjusted, which of course mainly happens when people with little mechanical knowledge fit aftermarkets levels and adjust the screw taking up all the free play.
Lots of info out there, including OEM levers:
HELP! Front BRAKE seized SOLID! Crashed 996! - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
Front brake seized up! - Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum
Lock-up in the front!!!! - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
Front brakes seized on my 2013 Hyperstrada! - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
And the site I cut and pasted the fitting info from:
Ducati Suite- Lever Change
Lots of info out there, including OEM levers:
HELP! Front BRAKE seized SOLID! Crashed 996! - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
Front brake seized up! - Ducati Monster Forums: Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum
Lock-up in the front!!!! - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
Front brakes seized on my 2013 Hyperstrada! - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
And the site I cut and pasted the fitting info from:
Ducati Suite- Lever Change
21 - 40 of 51 Posts
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