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Finished install of Ohlins shock on my Classic, a huge improvement and highly recommended. A couple of things to look for. First when comparing the Ohlins with the OEM shock, the upper rod U-fitting that the mounting bolt goes through, is wider. The OEM bolt is too short to engage the full OEM nut depth / threads. You might consider using a M10x1.5m thread x 50mm long button head bolt. Second the lower shock mounting fitting is larger than the OEM (see picture). This causes the fitting to bind on the cast swing arm in several places (see pictures). I used a Dremel to clearance ever so slightly (go slow) so the shock is free to move without binding on the swing arm. The OEM lower mounting bolt works, but you cannot get the OEM washer / spacer in as the Ohlins bushing is slightly thicker than OEM. You don’t need the washer / spacer. Cheers!
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That's very useful mcc :), but why on earth didn't they make them a smaller size, :oops:

They've actually made that a no go for most buyers, and not only that, the swingarm is hollow in most places, and a Dremel in some hands is a recipe for disaster :rolleyes:
 

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As stated, the OEM washer is not needed, and should be omitted. I had ZERO clearance issues otherwise - and there was no removal of swing-arm material necessary.

Your results may vary...
 
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I'm with tony on this...no washer, and definitely no matrial removed from swingarm. Overall fit is pretty spot on. Problem may be that shock was installed backward.
 

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I've only heard of one shock being sent back to Ohlins because the dealer couldn't figure out how to install the shock. I think having to remove any material is a very, very small percentage if any. However, there is always a exception to the rule.
 

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Thanks for the tips.

I also had fitment issues with the lower bracket of the Ohlins. I couldn't get the bolt through to the threads of the swing arm. The outer side of the bushing bracket was hitting the swing arm so the bolt holes wouldn't line up.

Grinding a bit off the Ohlins bushing bracket solved it, and is easier to do than grinding the swingarm.

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Other tips:
- For the upper bracket, buy an M10 x 50mm high tensile bolt (grade 10.9 or 12.9) before doing the install. The upper bracket of the Ohlins at 36 mm wide is 5mm wider than the stock. The stock nut won't have enough threads in if the old 45mm bolt is re-used. A longer bolt will also have enough length so you can have a washer between the bolt head and aluminum alloy bracket of the Ohlins.
- For the lower bushing, if the bolt doesn't go through easily at first attempt, you'll have to grind the bushing end to fit. Do not force it. The inner side of the bushing has to be completely flush with the swing arm wall.
 

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Hello

Thanks for these informations. I definitively understand why it was quite difficult to screw back the lower bolt on my Scrambler... I hope I haven't damaged the threading in the swingarm...

I will dismount as soon as possible the shock and grind its lower head.

Question : on which side of the lower head did you remove some material ? on both side ? on the visible side (when on left side of the bike) ? on the hidden side ? (considering that the shock is mounted with the set up screw visible as on the fourth photo of the first post of this thread)
 

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Grind the lower part of the visible/outer/left side of the bracket. The inner side doesn't hit the swing arm since the bushing is offset longer on that side.
 

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I know this is a really old thread, but just bumping this because I ran into this issue, I’m sure other people out there have experienced it as well.
My scrambler is one of those with a little bit of extra casting on the inside of the swing arm similar to OP, following this thread I ground a tiny bit of material from the outer edge of the shock and that gave it enough clearance to fit.
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