Gauge relocation
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149 Posts
Ive relocated the gauge but i used rizoma's bracket. The Rizoma bracket needs an 1 1/8 size bar and the stock bars are 7/8s so you have to swap out stock bars for Full Throttle bars, Rizoma bar, etc. You could fab up your own bracket to go under the stock clamp and cut off the existing mounting point if you are handy at fabrication and reuse your stock bars.
You don't say if you want the clock on the tank side or out front where I think it should be.
I fitted mine on the tank side and I'm not sure I should have compromised, next time round (which won't be long) I intend fitting the clock out front and centre.
If you want it out front above the headlight then the show stopper is the ignition barrel, there isn't really a place to re-locate it and look factory as it's quite bulky. Plus you lose the steering lock function.
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149 Posts
Not 100% sure yet, once I decide to strip the bike I'll see better what can be done. One plan was to relocate altogether and put it at the side panel below the seat. Another was to fit another clock (rev counter) to the left side of similar size and go for the symmetrical look and leave the ignition barrel.
I don't mind not having a steering lock, in fact if I could bypass the transponder I would just have a basic on/off key switch.
Ditching the standard gauge and fitting something better is tempting but the ecu needs to communicate with it.
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149 Posts
Id really like to relocate the key to the panel under the seat but I've been waiting for someone else to do it first. Ideally, id like to strip the ABS system for braided lines direct to the calipers, a single bucket headlight without the fairing bracket, key located somewhere out of the way and a simple old school analog speedo. i should have bought an old cb750...
That might work apart from the fact it doesn't re-locate it anywhere. It's purely to enable other risers to be used and leave the speedo offset
If the barrel unit can be made smaller by removing the locking mechanism that inserts into the headstock it would make it easier to find somewhere to put it.
The speedo is part of the management and or the security system and needs to see a signal before start-up. It's also part of the self diagnosis.
I'ts 'maybe' possible that after the initial sweep and fault check that the clock sends an OK signal to the ECU and if the signal is just a completed live circuit then it could be by-passed.
Why do you want to remove the ABS ? (not saying you shouln't) just curious.
I have fitted a braided brake line but only to the ABS unit from the master cylinder as the original lines are already braided. I only wanted to get rid of the washing line.
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149 Posts
Mostly just for looks, less clutter. Id like to chop the frame under the seat and weld in a loop with an integrated LED taillight strip embedded into the loop. Being able to remove the ABS would free up space under the seat to move the stuff that i would have to keep. The Holographic Hammer Scrambler is my dream of what id want mine to look like.
Aye Derek, done all that before. If the ignition switch is moved then I imagine all the wires will need lengthened or modified. Personally I don't wish to have the immobiliser facility and would look to leave the antenna and transponder together up front.
The sliding cover over the starter could possibly be modified as an ignition using the switch gear from the Diavel.
The sliding cover over the starter could possibly be modified as an ignition using the switch gear from the Diavel.
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199 Posts
Does anyone know if the British Customs solution is compatible with the rizoma screen?
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28 Posts
Rizoma do 2 different brackets to centralise the speedo, one with a fat-bar conversion putting the speedo south of the top-yoke (tank side). If you want to use 7/8 bars you could use different risers but the speedo remains south of the top yoke.
The other relocation bracket puts the speed central but on top of the yoke. This setup being designed for clip-ons and fits neatly over the riser holes.
The other relocation bracket puts the speed central but on top of the yoke. This setup being designed for clip-ons and fits neatly over the riser holes.
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776 Posts
I don't think you'll managed to remove the immobiliser function Hui. The key has a transponder in it and has to be in proximity of a few inches of the antenna which is around the lock barrel under the shrouding cover. The immobiliser is built into the dash. At switch on it communicates with the key and if it gets the right response sends a serial signal to the ECU allowing it to start the engine.
C'mon noo Derek,
That's exactly what I said a few post ago. I have in the past when building specials removed the chip from the key and IF the antenna ring can be removed then attach the two together a place it under the dash, (cars usually) this allows weapons type triggers to be used as switches. Which was the idea of using a Diavel starter switch gear on the Scrambler.
Push the slider down to switch on ignition, then expose the button for start. Only a thought at this stage.
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