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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks,

I recently encountered a problem that has me and my buds scratching our heads. Sorry for the long post but thanks in advance to anyone who replies. Appreciate it!

Symptoms:

1. Bike will start creeping forward when going from N to 1 upon start up with clutch pulled in (Bike will not roll after I give it some gas and let the clutch out and pull it back in fully)

2. Bike will continue to move forward when I downshift to 1st gear and have the clutch pulled in fully (i.e. the bike will keep delivering a little bit of power if I don't apply the brakes when coming to a stop)

3. When I rev with the clutch fully pulled in (while in motion), the speedo actually moves by about 1-2 km/h

4. When I try to push the bike in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in all the way, I feel minor resistance

5. I can never kick it into neutral while the engine is running

Has anyone ever encountered this? The obvious answer would be that the clutch plate is not being pulled out all the way, but I've played with all the cable adjustments at both ends and the problem still persists. The weird thing is once I get moving and come to a complete stop, for example at a red light, the bike does not roll/ pull with the clutch pulled in. It only happens at start up, and when coming to a never-ending rolling stop.

My friends say I'm using the wrong oil (5w40) but even so, I dont think it explains points 2, 3 and 4. Please if anyone has experienced this, I would love to hear your thoughts. Thank you.
 

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When you pull the clutch do you notice a difference in feel or travel when it creeps vs when it doesn't? You may need to lube the cable if its catching or sticking.
 

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Voor een deel van het verhaal herken ik dit. Bij koude motor blijven mijn koppelingsplaten aan elkaar plakken. Ik gebruik de shell olie die op de sticker vermeld staat. Trucje dat ik gebruik is dat ik de eerste versnelling ins hakel en dan de motor vooruit druk. Je voelt dan dat de koppeling loskomt. Dan met ingetrokken koppelingshandel de motor starten. Dan kan je wegrijden. Beetje warm rijden en probleem is weg. Conclusie de koppelingsplaten zijn versleten. Staan goede filmpjes op YouTube hoe dat te doen
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When you pull the clutch do you notice a difference in feel or travel when it creeps vs when it doesn't? You may need to lube the cable if its catching or sticking.
No there is no difference, and everything seems to be lubricated fine and nothing is getting caught. I'm going to do a long ride and heat up the oil to see if persists as the first step. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Voor een deel van het verhaal herken ik dit. Bij koude motor blijven mijn koppelingsplaten aan elkaar plakken. Ik gebruik de shell olie die op de sticker vermeld staat. Trucje dat ik gebruik is dat ik de eerste versnelling ins hakel en dan de motor vooruit druk. Je voelt dan dat de koppeling loskomt. Dan met ingetrokken koppelingshandel de motor starten. Dan kan je wegrijden. Beetje warm rijden en probleem is weg. Conclusie de koppelingsplaten zijn versleten. Staan goede filmpjes op YouTube hoe dat te doen
Thanks Wisma, had to translate that but thanks for the tip. Normally I would associate a bad clutch with slippage, but it could possibly be a spring issue or something with the basket. Starting up, shifting and power delivery is all normal. I'm really hoping it's just an oil issue.... Thanks!
 

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Thanks Wisma, had to translate that but thanks for the tip. Normally I would associate a bad clutch with slippage, but it could possibly be a spring issue or something with the basket. Starting up, shifting and power delivery is all normal. I'm really hoping it's just an oil issue.... Thanks!
My 2016's clutch had all the same symptoms at 10k miles, replaced it with a Barnetts clutch/spring kit and readjusted, everything is working fine now. I did notice the original Adige plates were burnt a bit and some very small grooves worn into the basket, so if you're changing it yourself take a look at all of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My 2016's clutch had all the same symptoms at 10k miles, replaced it with a Barnetts clutch/spring kit and readjusted, everything is working fine now. I did notice the original Adige plates were burnt a bit and some very small grooves worn into the basket, so if you're changing it yourself take a look at all of that.
This is not what I wanted to hear lol. Did you replace the basket as well? Been reading about some premature wear on the plates due to incorrect factory set up as well.... seems like a known issue
 

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My first thought, sounds like too much free play on the lever. How much is the free play? And does the cable run "free" from engine to left bar? (not jammed somewhere)
 

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My first thought, sounds like too much free play on the lever. How much is the free play? And does the cable run "free" from engine to left bar? (not jammed somewhere)
There's a few mm of free play, and the cable is free. I've gone through the trouble of adjusting it thread by thread, but nothing has helped with the initial pull from N to 1...
 

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Doesn't look really weird, but the extra bend/length you don't need with these bars may play a role here making them feel a bit mushy. Also, as a test, put the stock clutch lever back on. Some levers have a slightly different location for the barrel of the inner cable making the pull a tad lighter, but the lever travel longer.
 

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Same symptoms as mine. OEM clutch: meh. Barnett: awesome.
 

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This is not what I wanted to hear lol. Did you replace the basket as well? Been reading about some premature wear on the plates due to incorrect factory set up as well.... seems like a known issue
Did not replace the basket, but if you’re interested in what it looked like when I changed it:
47106


Some of the friction plates near the middle of the stack were completely flat, towards the front and back still had some meat on them. Had no issues at all since replacing the plates and springs. There’s a technique I’ve seen on some other forums to take some light sand paper and flatten the grooves up a bit but it’s not that crazy. Next time the clutch goes out I’ll inspect to see if the grooves are any deeper and replace the basket as needed. YMMV if you’re getting this done at a dealer they might tell you a new basket is necessary and the labor involved will make the job much more costly.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did not replace the basket, but if you’re interested in what it looked like when I changed it:


Some of the friction plates near the middle of the stack were completely flat, towards the front and back still had some meat on them. Had no issues at all since replacing the plates and springs. There’s a technique I’ve seen on some other forums to take some light sand paper and flatten the grooves up a bit but it’s not that crazy. Next time the clutch goes out I’ll inspect to see if the grooves are any deeper and replace the basket as needed. YMMV if you’re getting this done at a dealer they might tell you a new basket is necessary and the labor involved will make the job much more costly.

I took it out for a long ride and adjusted the clutch play again as per Max Kool and the issue is very minor now. Gears shift even better than before, and I can get into neutral about 60% of the time now...pulls great too.

However, I've noticed a small clutch bite at about 3/4 of the lever pulled in, just a slight bite at that 3/4 mark - not strong enough to move the bike, but I feel it, nothing before or after. Has anyone experienced this as well? Everything else seems to be in order except so I'm hesitant to swap out the plates unless it starts to get worse... appreciate everyone's input and would welcome any more thoughts on the matter.
 

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Doesn't look really weird, but the extra bend/length you don't need with these bars may play a role here making them feel a bit mushy. Also, as a test, put the stock clutch lever back on. Some levers have a slightly different location for the barrel of the inner cable making the pull a tad lighter, but the lever travel longer.
I took it out for a long ride and adjusted the clutch play again as per Max Kool and the issue is very minor now. Gears shift even better than before, and I can get into neutral about 60% of the time now...pulls great too.

However, I've noticed a small clutch bite at about 3/4 of the lever pulled in, just a slight bite at that 3/4 mark - not strong enough to move the bike, but I feel it, nothing before or after. Has anyone experienced this as well? Everything else seems to be in order except so I'm hesitant to swap out the plates unless it starts to get worse... appreciate everyone's input and would welcome any more thoughts on the matter.
Providing the free play at the lever is correct, there is an adjustment that the dealer can do. It's called clutch oil pressure. Mine had similar problems, and resetting the clutch oil pressure fixed it. If that doesn't fix the problem, it's probably a warped plate(s).
 
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