Handlebar Replacement: Any 7/8" Aluminum okay?

Yes. Any 7/8" bar will fit the Icon/UE/Classic as a direct swap. The Full Throttle uses a fat bar clamp. Best advise I can give you is not to buy online if you don't know exactly what bend or height you want. Go to your local store and patronize them if you can sample some selections. Online retailers are great if you know exactly what you want/need. But don't use your local store to sample then buy online. That would be tacky.

Agree on the tackiness thing. If I learn local I buy local. I'll check out my shop tomorrow and see what they have available.

NC

Xtyling said:

Yes. Any 7/8" bar will fit the Icon/UE/Classic as a direct swap. The Full Throttle uses a fat bar clamp. Best advise I can give you is not to buy online if you don't know exactly what bend or height you want. Go to your local store and patronize them if you can sample some selections. Online retailers are great if you know exactly what you want/need. But don't use your local store to sample then buy online. That would be tacky.

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By grip portion parallel I meant to say this, if it is any clearer.

Imagine the handlebars were perfectly straight from side to side like a bar you would use to bench press. That is how the stock bars feel to me. So in addition to wanting lower bars I'd like the grips to angle in a little bit more towards me. The Full Throttle bars may be ideal but I imagine that means a new clamp as well. I'll see what my dealer has on the shelf, if anything.

NC

dfelix said:

Check this post.

When first tried the Icon... i hated the handlebar.
Same happens with Urban Enduro as supposedly it is even higher. Or at least Ducat refers it as "off-road handlebar with crossbar". ( besides after some photoshop measures it looks that difference to Icon/Classic is only the crossbar)

Not really sure about "grip portion not being so parallel to chest" thing... however the full throttle handlebar is proving to be a good choice on my UE.

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I think you are talking about pull back, NC. Here's a handy chart:

Motorcycle, Dirt Bike, and ATV Handlebar Measurements and Information

You might also consider a steel bar if you find a bend you like. Steel may be a bit more likely to bend in a tip over, but when using a 7/8's bar I've found steel vibrates much less than aluminum. It seems that way to my hands, any way.

Sarah

Numbercruncher said:

The Full Throttle bars may be ideal but I imagine that means a new clamp as well.

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FT handlebar is sold as a kit.
Package already contains both upper and lower mounting brackets and bolts.

(part number 96280181C)

Thanks everyone.

I hate to say it but at 46 years of age I have issues I didn't have 20 years ago. The outside of my left thumb is still numb from yesterday's ride. I also had a new pair of gloves on that were a little tight so it may be that as well.

NC

I can relate, I changed the bars almost right away (Flanders #10 dirt track bars, cut down to 32 inches, 1.5 inches off each end and some fatter Biltwell renegade grips), the larger diameter made a big difference. I've been through a number of gloves as well, new tight gloves will do the same thing regarding numbness, for me anyway. I also found not making them too tight at the wrist velcro helps if your glove have that. Relaxing your grip on the bars helps a lot too. I have a KTM500 that has some serious vibration, I installed some Vibranators, made a huge difference, (different riding style with much more death grip going on). They are like a weighted tuning fork to dampen vibration and fit inside the bar ends.

Well I decided to order the FT handlebar kit. I was expecting way over $200 but with sales tax I still got them for under $200 so I thought why not.

I am a litte concerned with how much extra cable length I am going to have but if they just stick up a little I won't worry about it. Better than going the other way around where the cables are too short.

I can always buy a set of Rentals for $70 if I don't like the FT setup and sell that to someone on the board.

NC

Great post, Im ongoing the same issues with my 2017 Scrambler Sixty2,

Do you know if a Renthal 7/8" Ultra Low will be a direct swap (plug and play) for my Sixty2?

Thanks!

As with any aftermarket bars, you need to drill positioning holes or grind down the notches in the switchgear and the throttle housing.

Max Kool said:

As with any aftermarket bars, you need to drill positioning holes or grind down the notches in the switchgear and the throttle housing.

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Ok, that was what I was afraid of, could you please explain how "difficuilt" this job might be?
Will I be ok with a regular house drill?

Thanks!

yeah, just measure twice, drill once.

(or do as many people do, file off the notches)

Some (Renthal MX for example) bars are too short where the throttle tube and controls go on, meaning the clamps are just on the 1st bend and the levers end up not pointing where they should be.
If you study your own bars you will see they are short where they clamp onto the riser and have long straight sections where the controls are. A lot of bars are the other way round so chose wisely.

Thanks Max and Huí for your responses, very clear!