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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The handlebars on the Icon seem a long reach for mainly street riding so decided to lop 1 inch off each end. One inch is about the max which can be removed and still have enough straight section remaining for hand levers, switches modules etc.

Also changed mirrors to 3-inch folding bar enders. Surprisingly high quality for $19 eBay specials. Machined aluminum, all stainless hardware, fully adjustable on the fly. Good field of view and crystal clear. One problem, the slotted expansion collars were too snug for the stock bars so spun them with a cordless drill and buffed them down with 220 grit sand paper. Also cut the slots a little deeper with a hacksaw to make them slip into the bar ends more easily.

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The handlebars on the Icon seem a long reach for mainly street riding so decided to lop 1 inch off each end. One inch is about the max which can be removed and still have enough straight section remaining for hand levers, switches modules etc.

Also changed mirrors to 3-inch folding bar enders. Surprisingly high quality for $19 eBay specials. Machined aluminum, all stainless hardware, fully adjustable on the fly. Good field of view and crystal clear. One problem, the slotted expansion collars were too snug for the stock bars so spun them with a cordless drill and buffed them down with 220 grit sand paper. Also cut the slots a little deeper with a hacksaw to make them slip into the bar ends more easily.

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if cutting the handlebars do i need to drill new holes so the switch modules etc will fit or best not to cut too many holes in the handlebar and remove some material from the throttle tube holder and switch modules. planning to cut 2cm of the bars
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes I recall now, it was necessary to drill a couple of extra alignment holes to hold the throttle tube and switches in position. Just measure over from the existing holes the same distance you intend to remove from the bar ends and drill new holes. Aluminum was easy to drill about 6mm bit I think? I would recommend against modding the t-tube and switch module as the dowels prevent any chance they could rotate.
 

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I was worried that 4 holes close next to each other (1 every 2cm) would weaken the handlebar .
In my experience of doing this a number of times, the extra holes will be no risk. I´ve done it on alloy and steel bars in the past.
However the alternative is to nip/grind off the pins, then put a couple of layers of black electricians tape on the bars in the right place so that when you screw up the housings they bite into the tape. That works fine as well. The bonus is, it gives you some adjustment options on the levels of the levers to get in a more comfortable position for your fingers and hands.
 

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Those mirrors look like exact copies of the CRG Lanesplitters I paid a small fortune for! Got a link?
I have same/similar. Cost about $30 Australian from memory. Quality directly proportional to price. If you are in Australia I could try to dig up where I got em.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
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