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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone taken the headers off of their Scrambler? Initially I just wanted to get the end cans ceramic coated black, but I'd now like to do the whole system. The rear cylinder header looks like it could cause a few problems!
 

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Just leave the rear piece on and coat the rest unless you're ready to pull the motor. You can't see that part anyway.
 

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Some guy on here said to take the rear header off he had to remove the battery/battery box to get to the bolts and finagle it out. Sounds like a job..
 

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Might have been me :)
I did take the whole system off to have it ceramic coated. I ended up pulling the ABS unit and then the battery box comes out easily, and you can get to the rear header. If you don't it's impossible (it was for me anyway)
Just bleed the system to get brakes back into action. That was about 6 months ago, and I just rebled the front as I felt it getting a bit soft. Much better now.
If you leave that last piece fixed you see it, and I wasn't happy with that.
Good luck.
 

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Had it professionally coated, I can't quite recall how much it was, maybe a couple hundred ?
Had the guys coat the springs at the same time.
I reused all the parts from the ABS unit - it was only about 4000km's old when I did all this and they looked brand new when I took it all apart.
I didn't take any photos while dismantling the exhaust - it became quite painful having to pull the battery box, but once that ABS unit was out, so much easier - i wish i didn't waste hours trying to get the rear pipe out without removing the box.
A couple photos attached
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Had it professionally coated, I can't quite recall how much it was, maybe a couple hundred ?
Had the guys coat the springs at the same time.
I reused all the parts from the ABS unit - it was only about 4000km's old when I did all this and they looked brand new when I took it all apart.
I didn't take any photos while dismantling the exhaust - it became quite painful having to pull the battery box, but once that ABS unit was out, so much easier - i wish i didn't waste hours trying to get the rear pipe out without removing the box.
A couple photos attached
Thanks, that looks real good.
 

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Just wanted to chime in for others who may wish to attempt this.

It's definitely very doable to remove the header from the rear cylinder without removing lines from the ABS unit. You also don't need to completely remove the battery box.

I did this tonight after work and it took a couple of hrs because I was figuring it out as I went. I didn't take enough photos for a full write-up but the following may help someone.

There are two key challenges - removing the non-drive side nut securing the exhaust flange on the rear cylinder, and manipulating the header pipe out of the frame.

Rough process:
Remove seat and plastic side and lower center panels.
Spray penetrant on all fasteners on the exhaust.
Remove battery (provides access to remove battery box fastener on non-drive side).
Slide fuse box off bracket (provides access to remove battery box fastener on drive side):
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Remove all fasteners securing plastic battery box (1 drive side, 1 non-drive side, 2 rear).
Cut the zip ties holing the loom conduit and rear O2 sensor cable to the side of the battery box.
Flex sides of battery box between the upper frame rails and push the battery box up. Use a zip tie to secure the box in this upward position:
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Remove rear header heat shield.
Challenge 1 - Removing the exhaust flange nut on the non-drive side. Neither a 3/8" or 1/4" drive 10mm socket will fit - the socket will foul on the pipe bend. Use a 10mm crows foot wrench on an extension to crack the nut. Once free, use a 1/4" drive 10mm with a universal and an extension to completely remove the nut. A ratchet spanner would probably work nicely too but I din't have one:
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Remove the other exhaust flange nut.
Remove exhaust springs.
Remove pipe connecting rear header pipe to the rest of the exhaust:
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Slide the header out of the head - it's now free from the engine but captured by the frame.
Remove the O2 sensor (probably easier to do this prior to remove the exhaust flange, but it's easy enough to do it at this step.
Challenge 2 - Freeing the pipe from the frame. You want to basically pivot the pipe through about 180 degrees up and over so the ends are pointing backward (easier said than done, but with some wiggling it does comply):
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At this point you can freely remove it from the frame.
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That's it. It's really not too bad once you have the front of the battery box raised up.

I have a Ti exhaust coming which annoyingly doesn't include this part of the headers so will paint it black so it doesn't look nasty.

Hope this helps someone. Cheers.
 

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