[ladyeclectic]

Does anyone have a guide on how to adjust the stock shock preload? Lol I rode over a particularly fun bump today and got launched off the seat of my bike (and I'm not a tiny girl!). It doesn't seem to be bottoming out, just rides hard, but I'm not sure which direction to go with the suspension tool.

Help?! :friendly_wink:

 

[littleowl]

I'm not sure it will help, but perhaps try with the lowest setting, which is the lowest of the series of notches on the preload adjuster. Can't remember which way that is as I've had the suspension replaced! Your handbook should say?

I'm not very heavy and had it on the lowest setting, but it made not a lot of difference to me

 

[ladyeclectic]

I'm not sure it will help, but perhaps try with the lowest setting, which is the lowest of the series of notches on the preload adjuster. Can't remember which way that is as I've had the suspension replaced! Your handbook should say?

I'm not very heavy and had it on the lowest setting, but it made not a lot of difference to me

So where the spring is at it's max extension?
(Gah, sorry if I sound like an idiot, I know nothing about suspension, this'll be the first time I play with any bike's rear shock myself!)

 

[injidup]

I'd say you'd want it in position 1.
From the manual...

 

[ELVISTO]

Why not try it on each of the five settings, you never know you may just find one that suits you,

Then again you might not

 

[fastwoman]

You probably know this, but it's much easier to change the spring setting if you carefully support the underside of the motorcycle frame on an automotive jack or milk crate. That said, the best position for the oem shock is in the trash.:3some:

 

[Fatbloke]

In addition the supplied C spanner for adjusting the pre-load is , at best , dire :angry5:

 

[MotoRocks]

Does anyone have a guide on how to adjust the stock shock preload? Lol I rode over a particularly fun bump today and got launched off the seat of my bike (and I'm not a tiny girl!). It doesn't seem to be bottoming out, just rides hard, but I'm not sure which direction to go with the suspension tool.

Help?! :friendly_wink:

It's in your yellow manual, pretty straight forward..

 

[DaveInWoodland]

In addition the supplied C spanner for adjusting the pre-load is , at best , dire :angry5:

Just remember to use the included collar to give you the necessary leverage and additional power required to turn that blasted collar. Another easy way to look at the adjustment is that it resembles a staircase. The higher you go up the stairs the more tension is placed on the preload.

 

[ladyeclectic]

Holy crap, two clicks down made a WORLD of difference! I still feel every hole and bump in the road but it's no longer jarring and painful!

 

[littleowl]

Good for you! :icon_thumright:

 

[conan]

OK, I must be special, but I can't get the collar to move. Is there something I have to do prior to trying to turn it? I even tried tapping with a hemmer and it wouldn't budge. Thanks.

 

[linux]

Just want to confirm, there is a sleeve that goes over the fork tool that will give you more leverage to turn the adjuster.

OK, I must be special, but I can't get the collar to move. Is there something I have to do prior to trying to turn it? I even tried tapping with a hemmer and it wouldn't budge. Thanks.

 

[injidup]

Yes. Although I don't think it's a fork tool. It's a C-spanner.

 

[injidup]

OK, I must be special, but I can't get the collar to move. Is there something I have to do prior to trying to turn it? I even tried tapping with a hemmer and it wouldn't budge. Thanks.

Take the weight off the rear wheel, it might help. I used the supplied C-spanner and extension handle from the tool kit under the seat. You shouldn't need to use a hammer!!!! Is a hemmer what us non-American speakers call a sewing machine?

Maybe you are special

 

[chugh6593]

At the begining I could not do the adjustment even with the sleave extension. I then used a 2 foot pipe over the tool instead of the sleave. With that I could easily control the direction and apply enough pressure to change the preload position without much effort. My right hand (right handed) controls the force and my left hand guides and makes sure the tool does not slip. Worked really well for me after many failed attempts with the OEM sleave. The bike is on the side stand.

 

[Alberto Zavala]

use a long metal tube in which you will insert the tool, so you can apply more leverage without hurt your hands, do it slow, it will move pretty easy

 

[sparky123]

After following your guys advice, I used a floor jack with a 2x4 between the jack and engine case to lift the rear wheel about a 1cm off the ground. Used the Ducati supplied c-spanner and with very little force moved it up to the highest tension, which was only one click higher than it was set from the factory.
I find this works well for myself and a passenger, now I'm going to have to head out and see if I can live with it at this setting when riding solo??

 

[vincelp]

Hello

Just remember that changing the spring pre-load doesn't change the spring hardness, it just change the length of the usable sag of the shock. It also change the bike height. The more preload you put, the shorter sag you get and the higher is the bike.

 

[sparky123]

Hello

Just remember that changing the spring pre-load doesn't change the spring hardness, it just change the length of the usable sag of the shock. It also change the bike height. The more preload you put, the shorter sag you get and the higher is the bike.

I'm liking the little extra height

Hello

Just remember that changing the spring pre-load doesn't change the spring hardness, it just change the length of the usable sag of the shock. It also change the bike height. The more preload you put, the shorter sag you get and the higher is the bike.

All true...Thank you.