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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to share and then update my progress on my CR. I'll start with the initial mods:

-Just purchased sc project cr-t slip on in carbon fiber so that'll prob arrive in 4 weeks from Italy. It's so mean and roars. I'm going for max gains which means no actual muffler.

-MWR airbox side filters will then be installed to add 50% more airflow. plus a k&n in place of the stock internal filter.

-Ohlins rear monoshock and then I need to look into front suspension options.

I've already received my rexxer from David at Rexxer and have spoken to him about the remap I will be flashing my ecu with. I'm told by this free flow setup will fetch around 10hp with the rexxer tune putting my HP at around 84 at the crank and around 80 at the rear wheel. In addition to this I plan on concentrating on cutting the bikes weight as well.

weight reduction mods will go as follows:
-removal of cat and stock exhaust system= 15lbs est
  • switching from the stock battery to a lithium battery- 7.72 lbs
  • removing tail and installing tidy kit- 3 lbs
-tool kit- 1 lbs
- losing 10lbs off my body- I weigh 210 rn so I'll be at 200 in 2-3 weeks (cutting for summer rn anyway)

total weight reduction- 26.72 lbs shed but if I lose the 10 pounds its 36.72lbs

Either way with all of these things combined the power to weight ratio goes to 1 hp for every 4.37 lbs @ 359 lbs dry with the weight reduction + HP gains

Stock the bike is 396 lbs dry with stock dyno results from what I've seen not going over 68 HP at the rear. So this puts the bike at 5.82 lbs per HP which is a 25% increase in overall power. I will keep you updated as the project comes along. Prob won't have any dyno results but I'll send pics and let you all know how scary I can make it. BTW I lowered my clip ons big time which dials you into the bike wayyyy better over stock. This bike was meant to be fast and I intend to make it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also to put this in perspective the dry weight of a stock r6 is 404lbs. The back tire outputs 110 on most dynos which puts it at 3.67 lbs per HP. Having the scrambler at 4.37 over the stock 5.82 excited me greatly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you want some good weight savings only fill your gas tank up half way :giggle:

Which model yr CR do you have? There is a considerable weight difference between the cast and spoke wheels.
Hey! I actually have the 2020 with the spoke wheels. Are they heavier than cast or lighter? I hadn't even thought about that yet.
 

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Hey! I actually have the 2020 with the spoke wheels. Are they heavier than cast or lighter? I hadn't even thought about that yet.
So take into consideration this is with a bathroom scale with two different tires and different rotors, so not 100% accurate but good representation of the weight difference of rear cast/spokes. The front is not a big difference but I forgot to take pics of that!

46983


46984

46985

The spoked wheels are heavier, but they look cooler in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So take into consideration this is with a bathroom scale with two different tires and different rotors, so not 100% accurate but good representation of the weight difference of rear cast/spokes. The front is not a big difference but I forgot to take pics of that!

View attachment 46983

View attachment 46984
View attachment 46985
The spoked wheels are heavier, but they look cooler in my opinion.
I agree with the coolness factor of the spokes. Thank you so much for sharing this info as I honestly couldn't find it anywhere last night. Guess I'll have to diet some more and shave off another 10 lbs lmao.
 

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I wanted to share and then update my progress on my CR. I'll start with the initial mods:

-Just purchased sc project cr-t slip on in carbon fiber so that'll prob arrive in 4 weeks from Italy. It's so mean and roars. I'm going for max gains which means no actual muffler.

-MWR airbox side filters will then be installed to add 50% more airflow. plus a k&n in place of the stock internal filter.

-Ohlins rear monoshock and then I need to look into front suspension options.

I've already received my rexxer from David at Rexxer and have spoken to him about the remap I will be flashing my ecu with. I'm told by this free flow setup will fetch around 10hp with the rexxer tune putting my HP at around 84 at the crank and around 80 at the rear wheel. In addition to this I plan on concentrating on cutting the bikes weight as well.

weight reduction mods will go as follows:
-removal of cat and stock exhaust system= 15lbs est
  • switching from the stock battery to a lithium battery- 7.72 lbs
  • removing tail and installing tidy kit- 3 lbs
-tool kit- 1 lbs
- losing 10lbs off my body- I weigh 210 rn so I'll be at 200 in 2-3 weeks (cutting for summer rn anyway)

total weight reduction- 26.72 lbs shed but if I lose the 10 pounds its 36.72lbs

Either way with all of these things combined the power to weight ratio goes to 1 hp for every 4.37 lbs @ 359 lbs dry with the weight reduction + HP gains

Stock the bike is 396 lbs dry with stock dyno results from what I've seen not going over 68 HP at the rear. So this puts the bike at 5.82 lbs per HP which is a 25% increase in overall power. I will keep you updated as the project comes along. Prob won't have any dyno results but I'll send pics and let you all know how scary I can make it. BTW I lowered my clip ons big time which dials you into the bike wayyyy better over stock. This bike was meant to be fast and I intend to make it that way.
Let's see some pics!
 

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Lighter wheels are one of if not the best performance modification you can do to your bike. As a rule of thumb taking 8 pounds off your bike is like adding one HP. But even more important than general weight reduction is unsprung weight reduction. You get several benefits from this. By reducing the weight it allows the wheel to track the road surface better and makes the suspension have a less difficult time of doing its job. Then you have the reduction in rotational mass which reduces the effort to spin the wheels or stop them from spinning. I had a Paul Smart and changing from spoked wheels to forged aluminum wheels saved me around 14 pounds. I also got lighter rotors and smaller chain and sprocket and the total was almost 17 pounds. On my first ride I rode off the inside of the turn because the response to steering input was so much greater that what I was accustomed. The performance benefits I received were unbelievable. It accelerated so much harder, turned so much quicker and stopped like I ran into a wall. I got used to the better acceleration in one track session, The handling took several more sessions but the one that was the most difficult was the increased braking. It got to the point where I would say "I am going to die" twice before I put on the brakes and still was going too slow through the corner. Riders who had done track days with me for years all commented that they were sure I was going to crash because I looked like my brakes must have failed. Not saying do not do other things but the wheels are the best. They tend to be expensive but they are worth every dollar.

I have the black and gold 2018 and the handling is wonderful. I have not seen anyone making forged wheels for it yet but that is something I am looking to do.
 

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Lighter wheels are one of if not the best performance modification you can do to your bike. As a rule of thumb taking 8 pounds off your bike is like adding one HP. But even more important than general weight reduction is unsprung weight reduction. You get several benefits from this. By reducing the weight it allows the wheel to track the road surface better and makes the suspension have a less difficult time of doing its job. Then you have the reduction in rotational mass which reduces the effort to spin the wheels or stop them from spinning. I had a Paul Smart and changing from spoked wheels to forged aluminum wheels saved me around 14 pounds. I also got lighter rotors and smaller chain and sprocket and the total was almost 17 pounds. On my first ride I rode off the inside of the turn because the response to steering input was so much greater that what I was accustomed. The performance benefits I received were unbelievable. It accelerated so much harder, turned so much quicker and stopped like I ran into a wall. I got used to the better acceleration in one track session, The handling took several more sessions but the one that was the most difficult was the increased braking. It got to the point where I would say "I am going to die" twice before I put on the brakes and still was going too slow through the corner. Riders who had done track days with me for years all commented that they were sure I was going to crash because I looked like my brakes must have failed. Not saying do not do other things but the wheels are the best. They tend to be expensive but they are worth every dollar.

I have the black and gold 2018 and the handling is wonderful. I have not seen anyone making forged wheels for it yet but that is something I am looking to do.
Hey,

These exist:



Never seen them anyones bike...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Let's see some pics!
Will do soon. I installed the lithium battery and it only started the bike once. Thought it was good to go but couldn't hold a charge to start the bike the next day or even later that night. So no I'm returning the battery. It's the exact battery I saw another scrambler user using. PLS help haha. I'm trying to return it right now I guess I got one that was too weak. Weight diff is insane though

 

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Following up on the weight savings here is what I have measured so far for mine. As you can see the Catalytic converter is a huge savings.

Weight in Pounds​
Savings in Pounds​
Total Weight Savings​
-14.675​
Stock muffler​
2.685​
-2.685​
Catalytic converter​
9.75​
-9.75​
Leo Vince LV-10 muffler​
2.13​
2.13​
Evaporative collector​
0.89​
-0.89​
License plate holder and asso nuts & bolts​
1.69​
-1.69​
Catalytic converter mounts and nuts & bolts​
1.79​
-1.79​
 

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Hey,

These exist:



Never seen them anyones bike...
Thanks great info to have. I was afraid they were 18" front because it says Full Throttle but they are the 17" both front and rear which is what the CR calls for. I did not see any specifications on weight to compare to the stock cast wheels. I am sure it is lighter but if it were only a pound then it would be hard to justify. If it were several pounds each wheel then that is another story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So looks like 15.03 lbs removed so far (charcoal canister 1.1lbs, 3.11lbs tail removal, battery 8.1 lbs, toolkit/manual 1.1lbs) but add 15 ounces for the lithium battery. So 14 lbs removed about and also note that I got too weak of a battery. I think the weight diff will be slight but I will measure it. Need to figure out exactly which model is powerful enough.

The SC project crt carbon slip on is still 3 weeks out from Italy. As you can see I have the MWR power up side filters ready and I also have my rexxer unit with map ready to be flashed onto ECU.

What you all are saying about the difference with the cast wheels is making me want to drop some serious cash. Sounds like that'll be the night and day difference with with overall performance and additional weight loss. Looks like I can get the 17" stock gold wheels used on ebay for 750: Ducati Scrambler Cafe Racer Wheel Set - Gold | eBay






47033

47034

47035


47036

47037

47038

47039
 

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One note on lithium batteries. On cold mornings say close to freezing they have a hard time generating enough juice to turn over big twins. I was on a trip with my 1100 Hypermotard and it would not start. Fortunately I carried a lithium jumper battery that I kept in the hotel room or I would have been in trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
One note on lithium batteries. On cold mornings say close to freezing they have a hard time generating enough juice to turn over big twins. I was on a trip with my 1100 Hypermotard and it would not start. Fortunately I carried a lithium jumper battery that I kept in the hotel room or I would have been in trouble.
Do you have any suggestions on which lithium to use for the scrambler? I'm returning the current one as it didn't have enough kick to start. I too had to jump mine and it worked fine. It would start back up fast but then 3 hours later it was too weak again..
 

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Do you have any suggestions on which lithium to use for the scrambler? I'm returning the current one as it didn't have enough kick to start. I too had to jump mine and it worked fine. It would start back up fast but then 3 hours later it was too weak again..
Did you put it on a charger for 24 hours before you installed it? I just went to the Shorai website and they recommended this one.
LFX18A1-BS12
I see you bought the smallest one the 7 which has 102 CCA The 18 has 270 CCA a big difference. It is the one I have in my 2006 S2R 1000 Monster and it starts right up. Because it sits a lot I keep it on a lithium charger I got at Cycle Gear. It turns itself off when the battery is fully charged which is important to any battery but especially so with Lithium batteries. It will be a bit heavier at 2.3 pounds but it is pretty important to be able to start your bike.
 
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