[OldMan]

So I tried an Outex conversion. I have still to try the back wheel but the front failed and I cannot see how the kit as supplied would ever work. The nipples on the front wheel well are very, very close to the wall and the bend at the wall is sharp. So there is almost no flat area around the nipple for the tape to seal on. The problem is compounded by the second tape layer which is supplied wider than the first and is stiffer so it refuses to conform to the radius and peels back. The result was complete failure of the seal.

 

[JStrube]

Interesting. I've done several tubeless conversions on mountain bikes, and they use a sealant. They also use a thinner rim tape. I wonder how that would work if you put the tube back in just to press the seal strip back into place.

 

[OldMan]

Interesting. I've done several tubeless conversions on mountain bikes, and they use a sealant. They also use a thinner rim tape. I wonder how that would work if you put the tube back in just to press the seal strip back into place.

Thanks for this but the adhesive is having none of it now. Outex uses two tapes. The first is the strong advesive, is double sided, and does the actual sealing. The second replaces the tear-off keeper strip on the double sided and is tough to protect the underlying film during tyre changes. The bottom tape was simply not wide enough so didn't seal the extremities of the nipples whilst the top was too wide and its relatively weak adhesive was too weak to stick and conform to the metal. If the materials had been supplied cut to the right size I may have had a chance. You mentioned sealant.....was that put first on each nipple?

 

[Rewild]

I've done my own version with great success. I sealed all the nipples first with two applications of CT1 silicone sealant, any good quality sealant would so I think, then used a thick 3M brand tape, I'll find the spec if anyone's interested but there's many video's online. I didn't replace the original nipple tape as some say this can move and seal the valve later. I done both wheels without a problem and think that it's way cheaper to make your own kit rather than buy an Outex kit, there's really no difference.

 

[OldMan]

I've done my own version with great success. I sealed all the nipples first with two applications of CT1 silicone sealant, any good quality sealant would so I think, then used a thick 3M brand tape, I'll find the spec if anyone's interested but there's many video's online. I didn't replace the original nipple tape as some say this can move and seal the valve later. I done both wheels without a problem and think that it's way cheaper to make your own kit rather than buy an Outex kit, there's really no difference.

Thanks for this and please do give us the tape name.

 

[Rewild]

It's 3M 4411D extream sealing tape.

 

[Rewild]

I bought a 5.5m roll 50mm wide which did both wheels. I cut it down narrower for the front rim.

 

[OldMan]

I bought a 5.5m roll 50mm wide which did both wheels. I cut it down narrower for the front rim.

Hi Rewild, may I ask how aggressively you ground down the nipple bases and did you remove the gold anodising?

 

[Rewild]

I didn't grind anything, that's mostly why I used the silicone sealant. I smeared it all into and around the nipples, waited for it to dry and the applied a bit more just to be sure. I tried not to let the sealant spread out sideways too far. Once it had dried properly I then applied the 3M tape, it's very flexible and thick so allows for the uneven surface of the spoke nipples. It's also got a backing film on it that wants removing as you press it down, easy to miss that it's removable. I'll try and post some images

 

[Rewild]

A few more images

 

[Koggzee]

Flex Tape

 

[motoman]

So I tried an Outex conversion. I have still to try the back wheel but the front failed and I cannot see how the kit as supplied would ever work. The nipples on the front wheel well are very, very close to the wall and the bend at the wall is sharp. So there is almost no flat area around the nipple for the tape to seal on. The problem is compounded by the second tape layer which is supplied wider than the first and is stiffer so it refuses to conform to the radius and peels back. The result was complete failure of the seal. View attachment 45782 View attachment 45783

I just sealed my rear wheel about 3 mo ago. I have zero issues with leakage (better than the tubed front). I looked at your photos and I do not see the round individual nipple double side tape circles. Are they missing from your kit? or am I just unable to see them in the photo. They should be visible under the double side tape. (Nipple tape, then double side tape, then the hard coat seal tape.)

 

[OldMan]

Hello Motoman. The nipple tape is there but they were barely big enough. It seems I should have been much more aggressive i the grinding. Anyhow, Imhave put a 5mm tube in the front and with the Motoz tyres I have fitted I defy anything to get through it. The rear has sealed fine with the kit. This time the nipples are on the flat and the tape overlaps them fine and seals on the flat. Thanks for the replies.

 

[MotoModi]

my apologies if I'm repeating someone, but have you checked out Stan's no tubes? they make the strip tape and sealant for bicycles, but i bet you could fit them to a moto. I use the kit on my MTB and thrash the nuts off it and Stans is the shizzle...has yet to fail me.