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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2106 Icon. I typically use the rear brake little except in slow speed parking lot type operation. Lately it seems to have required more and more pedal travel to activate the brake. The fluid level in the reservoir is normal. Today I attempted to adjust the connecting rod .. and that worked a little but I ran out of adjustment before I got it to where I want it. As a temp fix I can drill a 4 holes in a small rectangle of 1/2" wood board and wire it to the top of the brake pedal.

Has anyone else experienced this?? (Pad thickness looks almost OEM -- Bike has only 9,000 miles)

Thanks
Mike
 

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They need bleeding fairly frequently to overcome this. Its tricky too as air accumulates at the ABS block and needs bleeding by cracking open the banjo bolts carefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They need bleeding fairly frequently to overcome this. Its tricky too as air accumulates at the ABS block and needs bleeding by cracking open the banjo bolts carefully.
Thanks much for the info!! At age 74 my wrenching activities don't extend beyond tinkering with the adjustment rod ... So I guess a $100+ trip to the dealer is in order.. I would think that a competent tech at the dealer with a lift and the proper tools should be able to bleed in 15 minutes ... but they seem to have a minimum 1 hour labour charge ($115) even though they charge fractional hours for bigger jobs.
 

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Thanks much for the info!! At age 74 my wrenching activities don't extend beyond tinkering with the adjustment rod ... So I guess a $100+ trip to the dealer is in order.. I would think that a competent tech at the dealer with a lift and the proper tools should be able to bleed in 15 minutes ... but they seem to have a minimum 1 hour labour charge ($115) even though they charge fractional hours for bigger jobs.
You may already know this but be careful when adjusting the pushrod because if you don't leave the correct amount of play at the pushrod to piston you can cook the rear brake when it heats up. This can lock the brake on solid meaning either;
1; Sit and wait for it to cool down.
2; Loosen the bleed nipple to relieve the pressure.

If you chose to wait then the heat at the pads area can maybe ruin the disc.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You may already know this but be careful when adjusting the pushrod because if you don't leave the correct amount of play at the pushrod to piston you can cook the rear brake when it heats up. This can lock the brake on solid meaning either;
1; Sit and wait for it to cool down.
2; Loosen the bleed nipple to relieve the pressure.

If you chose to wait then the heat at the pads area can maybe ruin the disc.
Thanks for the suggestion. But with pushrod at full extension I still have about 4cm == 1.6 in of free brake pedal travel before any braking force is applied at all :-(
Mike
 

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Thanks for the suggestion. But with pushrod at full extension I still have about 4cm == 1.6 in of free brake pedal travel before any braking force is applied at all :-(
Mike
No Mike, that’s not it.

The free play is where the pushrod has free play before making contact with the piston. Like a complete air gap of around 2-3mm (at the rod itself) before any contact with the piston.
By what you’re saying it seems to me if you were to bleed your brakes now and find you suddenly have ‘a pedal’ then you’re going to have problems as have had a few before you.

Free play has nothing to do with the amount the pedal moves.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No Mike, that’s not it.

The free play is where the pushrod has free play before making contact with the piston. Like a complete air gap of around 2-3mm (at the rod itself) before any contact with the piston.
By what you’re saying it seems to me if you were to bleed your brakes now and find you suddenly have ‘a pedal’ then you’re going to have problems as have had a few before you.

Free play has nothing to do with the amount the pedal moves.
I'm almost 74 years old and have given up all but trivial wrenching. So I'm not going to attempt to bleed anything. I'll take it to the dealer and cough up the 100+ US$ as I previously said. The "free play" to which I refer is that I have to push the brake PEDAL down 4 or 5 cm (1.4-2 in) before any resistance to pedal movement is felt by my foot. And THAT is excessive movement in the brake pedal before braking occurs. Would you like to ride a bike in which you had to push the brake pedal down 2 inches before resistance / braking was felt?? We may use different terminology but I've been riding continuously since 1968 when I bought a Honda S90. Right now I own a bought new 2006 Suzi DR 650 with 56,000 miles and a bought new 2009 Suzi TU 250X with 10,000 miles in addition to the Ducati. So I humbly apologize for misnaming it "free play" Please tell me what to call it ... but in 52 years and 200,000 miles of riding I have NEVER encountered a situation in which I had to push ANY rear brake pedal 2" before activating brake --- not even my Ducati until recently.
 

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I'm almost 74 years old and have given up all but trivial wrenching. So I'm not going to attempt to bleed anything. I'll take it to the dealer and cough up the 100+ US$ as I previously said. The "free play" to which I refer is that I have to push the brake PEDAL down 4 or 5 cm (1.4-2 in) before any resistance to pedal movement is felt by my foot. And THAT is excessive movement in the brake pedal before braking occurs. Would you like to ride a bike in which you had to push the brake pedal down 2 inches before resistance / braking was felt?? We may use different terminology but I've been riding continuously since 1968 when I bought a Honda S90. Right now I own a bought new 2006 Suzi DR 650 with 56,000 miles and a bought new 2009 Suzi TU 250X with 10,000 miles in addition to the Ducati. So I humbly apologize for misnaming it "free play" Please tell me what to call it ... but in 52 years and 200,000 miles of riding I have NEVER encountered a situation in which I had to push ANY rear brake pedal 2" before activating brake --- not even my Ducati until recently.
I understand all that but what I’m saying is;
You’ve messed with a critical adjustment in the mistaken belief that you can improve the PEDAL feel by adjusting the freeplay at the pushrod.
If now suddenly the air was to disappear by bleeding or whatever then you will be left with a badly adjusted brake and possibly run into problems.
The only reason you haven’t is because the air present in the system is allowing expansion.

It makes no difference how old you are or how many bikes you have or the terminology used the fact is you adjusted the wrong thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you.. I fully understand that when the underlying problem is fixed in any system then ALL components of the system that may may have been adjusted must be reset to compensate appropriately. Hopefully the dealer who identifies and fixes the underlying problem understands that too but when he is done with the bike, I will check for appropriate travel of brake pedal before engagement and ensure I can feel no drag while rolling the bike.
 
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