Pressure swith ordered. Hopefully I'll install it next week. Thank you for the information.
I have the 2020, can confirm that it's still the same. Found this thread while looking for options as I'm now on my THIRD switch and the bike has only done 1300km... The dealer has tried zipties, new switches etc. Nothing holds this crap in place. I have contacted Ducati but theres been no reply... How someone at Ducati approved this is beyond me... I have now done more miles back and forth to the workshop for warranty errands that i have joyriding...same issue here..I've done the same fixes which did not hold up. I wonder if ducati has fixed this on the 2020 or 2021 models
Don't know... I'm going to 3D print a few spacers and try it out. If i find a good solution and you've got the same problem I could send you one seeing as you're in sweden as well!Is this on 2021s also? Would I need to zip tie at delivery. God damn haha
Thank you so much for this! I was on my way to my drivers test when I found out mine hade broken off for fourth time in one season... This means I couldn't complete the test and there are no new time slots untill next July... Yet another season ruined by this shit design... Will be doing this your way soon as the dealer where I bought my bike went bankrupt and ducati wont help me with any warranty issues even though the bike is brand new...2019 Ducati Scrambler Desert Sled, rear brake switch replacement
This post pools together some notes from everyone who contributed on schematics, parts, wiring, and converting a really poor design to a more reliable hydraulic switch. Thanks, all!
Time: About an hour
4mm hex wrench
6mm hex wrench
11mm wrench (not in every metric set. Check yours in case you need to pick one up)
12mm monkey wrench
14mm monkey wrench
Supplies (~$50 USD):
10mm x 1.00 thread hydraulic switch (Amazon.com : TUSK Hydraulic Brake Switch Brembo Brakes : Scoreboards And Timers : Sports & Outdoors)
22-16 AWG (or thereabouts) weatherproof butt connectors
DOT 4 brake fluid
Brake parts cleaner spray
Rubber tubing for old brake fluid
Plastic bottle to trap old brake fluid
Part I: Replace the old plug with a hydraulic switch
Part II: wire it up.
- Use the 6mm hex wrench to remove rear foot peg assembly. I needed to to this to get access to the the brake cylinder. Based on your tools, you may be able to skip this step.
- You may need to put one bolt back in to lift up the exhaust assembly and hold the brake cylinder in the correct position. See photo.
- Lay a shop rag over your exhaust in case any brake fluid drips. Brake fluid is corrosive and can damage finishes.
- Remove the original cylinder plug and two washers. You can chuck this in the garbage.
- Replace the old plug with the banjo switch and 2 washers.
- If there were any drips, spray brake parts cleaner on a rag and wipe up.
The snap connector for the original switch is somewhere under the seat, and, I believe, would require removing parts of the rear assembly, so I took the easy route and just joined the new switch to the old wires with butt connectors.
Part III: bleed the rear brakes.
- Snip the three wires on the old switch where they enter the switch casing.
- Strip the brown and gray wires. You can safely ignore the blue one.
- Test it. Turn the key to On. The brake light should be off. Touch the brown and gray wires together. That should turn your brake light on. If not, you’ll need to inspect the switch for your front brake handle.
- Make sure both wires are routed inside the bike’s tube framing.
- Connect wires with butt connectors and shrink.
- The wire cap on the blue wire in the photo is optional. I added it as a visual reminder to the next person that the blue wire is disconnected on purpose.
- Wrap judiciously with electrical tape.
- Turn the key to On and test the brake light once more.
- Use the 4mm hex wrench to loosen the plastic plate that covers the wiring route.
- Shove your electrical tape ball of goodness along with the other wires. Ducati this this is a good place for wires to go. Who am I to argue. See photo.
- I zip tied the new wires to adjacent wires. See photo.
There's a chance air entered the brake fluid when the plug was removed. If your brake fluid is good, you just need to bleed out any air bubbles.
Part IV: Adjust the rear brake lever travel
- Great instructions are at How to Bleed the Brakes on Your Ducati Scrambler - YouTubehttps://www.youtube.com › watch
Part V: Put it back together
- Easy way: You could zip tie the old switch back into place. It acts as a stop for the high position for the rear brake lever.
- You can get creative here though. I replaced my old switch with a metal bolt of the same height, because it just felt sturdier.
View attachment 47960
- When screwing into the steel frame, always lubricate, and go slowly. Bolts are harder than the threads in the frame, and it’s easier than you would think to strip threads. If you do strip threads, a metric tap wrench set will set you back another $15 or so on Amazon.
Sorry to hear it's still an issue, let us know how the hydraulic works out! Have a good one!Have a 22 and it’s still an issue. My issue is not with placement but after reading all the post maybe it has to do with placement.
My issue is the switch/plunger gets stuck depressed permanently and doesn’t come out.
first replacement was at the 600 service when I got home I noticed my rear brake light wasn’t working. They argued with me that it was because I dropped my bike off roading which is bs.
got a replacement in hand and replaced it myself. 2nd one, same issue switch/plunger stuck somewhere in between 3000-3600 miles since I was checking it periodically.
went back to the dealer and they said they need to diagnose it and hook it up blah blah blah. More bs. I brought them both the original and the replacement in hand and its Clearly the same issue.
don’t want to deal with them even for a oem replacement. It’s just gonna happen again due to the design. Just gonna do this hydraulic mod y’all doing.
Ok so this just replaces the banjo bolt holding the line from the rear master to the rear brake? This just seems like the better long-term solution than trying to fix that looks like a really fragile, not waterproof, switch that is going to get destroyed by the rear brake pedal.
Yea way better solution. Here’s a link of what I got.Ok so this just replaces the banjo bolt holding the line from the rear master to the rear brake? This just seems like the better long-term solution than trying to fix that looks like a really fragile, not waterproof, switch that is going to get destroyed by the rear brake pedal.