Rear brake switch loading

Here are some high res pictures in case someone wants to do it themselves.

The location of the 3 bolts, the rubber grommet to get the cover off and the plug youll unplug:

The location better of the two on the undertray:

Where I Just cut the wire and left the old sensor, I cut it all off since mine was already broken two months in, Ill eventually remove it and put in a steel brake pedal stop.

Here is the plug end with wires, as noted you'll just cap off the blue one. Ive already thrown some head-shrink on there. One to cover my splice and another at the top to seal up the end, I have had a history with ducati wiring and getting dirty/wet so Im aggressive with the sealing AND jamming dielectric grease anywhere I can

The sensor end, nice thing is under the nipple its well sealed with a hardened urethane:

I soldered mine, hopefully wont be dicking with this again (dont forget to put the heat shrink on beforehand):

Brush the bare copper with some dielectric and heat shrink over the soldered joint:

And then another over that as an abrasive layer and to protect from water (also jammed with grease):

Now that we have a sensor:

Remove the two bolts from the peg and put them back in to support the brake and exhaust while you work, also gets you clear access to the banjo bolt:

NO DRIPS ON THE PAINT!

Make sure and use the new washers that came with the kit, they are thicker and are needed for the longer bolt. Snug the new bolt in, run the wire up behind the brake line, behind the frame, get it inside the metal hook so it wont touch the exhaust, plug it in, zip tie any excess:

Test, bleed the rear brakes (you will have introduced air into the very beginning of the system so run a lot through, you will eventually get a bubble), the put everything else back where it came and Bobs your uncle!


Now I just need to fab up a bracket that will replace the broken switch as a stopper for the pedal. And it looks totally factory, I bet I could take it into the dealer for service and they wouldn't even notice.

Here is the plug end with wires, as noted you'll just cap off the blue one. Ive already thrown some head-shrink on there. One to cover my splice and another at the top to seal up the end, I have had a history with ducati wiring and getting dirty/wet so Im aggressive with the sealing AND jamming dielectric grease anywhere I can
View attachment 50810
The sensor end, nice thing is under the nipple its well sealed with a hardened urethane:
View attachment 50811
I soldered mine, hopefully wont be dicking with this again (dont forget to put the heat shrink on beforehand):
View attachment 50812
Brush the bare copper with some dielectric and heat shrink over the soldered joint:
View attachment 50814
And then another over that as an abrasive layer and to protect from water (also jammed with grease):

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Can you explain more about the wiring? You mentioned capping off the blue wire of the OEM switch, but how do the other wires match up with the new switch?

Thank you very much for this post, it's something I've struggled with on my 2019 Desert Sled.

Thank you so much for getting back to me. I've only had the desert sled for several weeks and before I decided to write it I was going to get all the accessories put on it including taking the wheels off and making them tubeless. I got all of that accomplished and I was ready to take it out for a good ride but noticed that the rear brake light didn't activate with the rear brake but worked fine with the front brake. Talked to the dealership and they said that this was a problem they've seen a lot of. So I guess instead of taking it out for a ride I will be making the conversion as soon as the parts come in. Would've been nice to have this taken care of if I would've known about it whenever the wheels and everything we're off and I was putting on the skid plate etc. Live and learn I guess