Ducati Scrambler Forum banner

Rear shock spring mods

24204 Views 47 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Smoghog
I've seen some other posts here and there in regard to people just changing the rear shock spring instead of the entire shock and seeing great results. I've done some searching around but don't seem to find any resource or recommendations for the correct spring.

The cost as well is minimal compared to an entire rear shock replacement.

Has anyone done this and can you recommend a resource for the springs? Thanks!!
  • Like
Reactions: 1
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
I contacted renowned suspension experts "Maxton Engineering" in Cheshire regarding upgrading my Scrambler's suspension.. this was their response.

REAR
The standard rear unit is a very cheap unit, probably one of the cheapest you will find on a
modern bike. The unit is not adjustable for damping and is sealed, so it cannot be serviced or
revalved.
The standard unit has very little rebound damping so feels very ‘bouncy’, but it has too much
low speed compression damping which makes the ride feel harsh over bumps. The spring
fitted is a progressive spring, the first rate of the spring is OK for the average rider weight, but
the second rate is too hard and can also make the ride feel hard over big bumps.

We can fit a Linear spring to the standard shock but it will not stop the back of the bike
feeling like a “pogostick”. To dyno and respring the standard unit costs £95.00 + V.A.T. We
recommend a replacement Maxton unit.

The replacement Maxton NR4 unit is a fully adjustable, alloy bodied, high pressure gas unit
that adjusts via shim stack system. The unit has a spring to suit your rider weight and to suit
what type of riding you do. The unit is suited to high temperatures because it adjusts via a
shim stack not via a needle valve system. The NR4 unit costs £435.00 plus V.A.T it is adjustable
for rebound damping, compression damping and preload. Each adjuster is separately and
independently adjustable even though the shock does not have a remote reservoir.
The NR4 shock is NOT an emulsion shock absorber even though there is no remote reservoir.
The NR4 has a floating piston inside to separate the oil and Nitrogen. This is very unique, all
other shocks without remote reservoirs are emulsion shocks which suffer from damping fade
when hot.
Unfortunately due to the length of the shock being very short we can not fit a ride height
adjuster to the NR4 shock. But as we build this shock to order we can make it longer to raise
the ride height, this makes the bike turn quicker. There is no extra charge to do this.



FORKS
The front forks on the Ducati Scrambler look nice but are actually cheap and very crude.
The forks are upside down forks with a spring in both legs but damping only in the right
leg. The standard forks feel very harsh over small bumps this is because the forks have got
too much low speed compression damping. Over high speeds the forks feel like ‘pogosticks’
which means they dive very quickly and spring back at you very quickly. We would describe
the front forks as digressive.

The damping system fitted to the right leg is very crude and it's not possible for us to revalve
the leg successfully. To cure the problems with the front of the Scrambler we supply a new
GP20 cartridge to the right leg. Unfortunately due to the design of the left leg it is not
possible to fit a GP20 damping cartridge without major modification. The GP20 cartridge we
fit to the right leg has more damping than normal to compensate for the left leg having no
damping. This is a little unusual but actually works very well on the Scrambler. The GP20
cartridge makes the ride a lot more compliant and gives much more feel mid corner and
control to the front end. We fit a spring to the GP20 cartridge so when used with the left leg
suits your rider weight and what you use the bike for.

We can also make the right leg adjustable for damping by drilling and tapping a hole in the
fork top, you then fit a small allen screw with a Dowty washer to seal the tapped hole. To
adjust the damping you remove the allen screw and put a 3mm allen key down the hole, the
allen key then adjusts the rebound damping.

The GP20 cartridge costs £190.00 + V.A.T and to service and fit the cartridge with a new fork
seal costs £75.00 + V.A.T. If you wanted us to drill and tap the original fork top so you access
the rebound damping adjuster there would be no extra charge for this.

As mentioned we can fit damping cartridges to both legs but it would be very expensive for a
Ducati Scrambler. We fit our GP30 cartridges which have rebound damping in the right leg,
compression damping in the left leg and springs in both. To get the GP30 cartridges to fit we
have to remove and refit the bottom brackets from the chrome stanchions and weld a
platform into the bottom of the leg, we can then bolt a cartridge against the new platform.
The GP30 cartridges cost £895.00 + V.A.T and to modify the sliders to accept and GP30
cartridges and service and install the cartridges costs £245.00 + V.A.T. So the total is £1140.00
+ V.A.T.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
OK, here we go with our brand new 476 in/lb Racetech spring:



Notice that cut off hex wrench, that's what you'll need to access that lower shock bolt, unless you'd rather remove the passenger peg bracket. We used Smifff's trick and put the Toyota's scissor jack between the rear wheel and fender, made it super easy to pull the bolts and lift the shock out. You can get to the nut at the top with an open end wrench, just go straight up from the footpeg and finagle a bit. We went the homemade route and used 3 hefty hose clamps as a spring compressor. Cheap enough for sure and did the trick, but these springs are so short we were running out of bite on our clamps by the time we got them cranked enough to compress. If any of you decide to go this route be sure to get clamps that bite nearly their entire length. We got around the problem by using blocks of wood to add some bulk:

The real hitch came with Racetech's sizing collars. They were perfect for the bottom of the shock, but too big and sloppy at the top. Racetech had very little to go on, so this whole project was a guess. We got some aluminum from a machine shop buddy and as wak did earlier, Doug set in making a collar to fit. You can see the Racetech collar compared to Doug's:


Racetech collar:



Collar Doug made:



I'm hoping Racetech can supply a collar with a better fit for the rest of you, as I said they had very little to go on as this was their first go round with a Scrambler. Here's Doug's collar along with the specs he noted:



(Thank you, thank you, Doug!)

Here it is put together:



And on the bike:



Now how about the ride? A definite, definite improvement. I can actually feel the bike soaking up the bumps rather than the bumps skittering my butt on the seat. Actually sort of an odd sensation after being jarred and jostled for so long. I could have used a lighter spring for sure; I weigh 136lb geared to ride, and I have just under an inch sag at the lightest preload setting. Doug, at 175lbs, feels it's perfect for him and is impressed with the improvement. I may talk to Racetech about a swap, or maybe not; we plan to ride the bikes out West for vacation next week, and I don't want to be putting the bike back together right before we leave. Hand's down, I can tell you it's an improvement over the factory shock just as is.

Sarah
See less See more
8
I contacted renowned suspension experts "Maxton Engineering" in Cheshire regarding upgrading my Scrambler's suspension.. this was their response...
Cheers for posting that, I was curious to understand why so many people were complaining and it explains it well. Plus they are local to me, so it's a good option if I want to upgrade. Tbh I'm happy as-is though.
Hi Sarah,

Like the idea of cutting off 1/2 inch on the preload spacer as a first step in fixing the front forks. It's my understanding that this would only be done to the right fork. Is that correct? - hope this isn't a dumb question. Thanks.
Yes, the right leg is the one with the innards, so that's not a dumb question at all. Be sure to check DouglasLee's step-by-step above.
We leave for the Grand Canyon today and I've got the saddlebags and tankbag crammed full; we'll see how it goes.

Sarah
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Having had the opportunity to cover some miles, I would have to agree shortening the front fork preload spacer takes a lot of the harshness out of the front end. Improvement is most noticeable on the sharper pavement breaks and expansion joints. Braking is essentially unaffected, as before no tendency for the front end to dive when getting on the front brake hard. In hindsight and for future reference wish I had paid attention to A: if the spring rate is stamped on the stock spring someplace and B: if it is a progressive or linear winding? In short a worthwhile mod and not difficult to accomplish with some basic hand tools. Thanks to Sarah and company for trying it out.
Bit the bullet and cut down 15mm off the right fork preload spacer.

Was very straight forward although I have marked the top cap as it was particularly tight.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
See less See more
4
Hi Shamone,

Thanks for the pictures and information. Would appreciate knowing why you removed 20mm off the preload spacer (vs 12mm mentioned in other posts), and do you think it's possible to do this work without removing the fork? Think the speedometer bracket may interfere with removal of the fork internals. I'll be doing this modification soon, just waiting for a motorcycle lift to arrive. Like the Scrambler, but the suspension (and hardware) is horrible. Thanks again,
Hi Shamone,

Thanks for the pictures and information. Would appreciate knowing why you removed 20mm off the preload spacer (vs 12mm mentioned in other posts), and do you think it's possible to do this work without removing the fork? Think the speedometer bracket may interfere with removal of the fork internals. I'll be doing this modification soon, just waiting for a motorcycle lift to arrive. Like the Scrambler, but the suspension (and hardware) is horrible. Thanks again,
Whoops, I've corrected my post as I actually took off 15mm. I think it would be very difficult to do it you left the fork mounted, and you would have to remove the wheel and mudguard anyway so there's only the lower triple clamp left to undo.
I realised that the front cap was tight because I didn't released the upper triple clamp enough.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Thanks for your information and advice, really appreciate the explanation. The stand in your pictures looks sturdy. Would you mind sharing the make and model, I'm going with a generic Craftsman lift, but would also like something that uses the Scrambler's frame to elevate the machine. Thanks again,
It's an ABBA stand. Had it years and fitted many bikes including my Hornet, Street Triple and Diavel.
You just have to buy adaptors for your specific bike.
Motorcycle Equipment - Abba Stands, UK


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Dave,

They'll do the figuring for you based on your weight and the bike's current sag, and they may make a note of the bike's 5.9 inch rear wheel travel. Measure how much the bike sags when you push it off the sidestand and let it stand straight up on its wheels. Now measure again with you on the bike and feet on the pegs, you'll likely need a helper with that one. They'll ask for both measurements. If you talk with Mike or Dan you might mention me, since I talked their ears off, and make certain to remind them of the Scrambler's tapered spring (which tends to result in poor performance from what I understand) and make sure you get the sizing collars. wak1963 made his, but at $3.00 each there's no need to go thru the hassle. Extra nice folks at both places, don't be afraid to call and talk things over.

By the way, have I mentioned that cutting 1/2 inch off the fork preload spacer worked a miracle for the front end? Absolutely no more jammed elbow joints or teeth slammed together, it is like an entirely different bike up front. If we can help the rear end near that much I'll be tickled.

Sarah
Thanks for sharing the preload spacer mod Sarah.
I've done the mod and it does work extremely well.
I laugh in the face of drain covers and tweek the nose of potholes now.
Although I do find the forks do not respond quick enough over stretches of uneven or bumpy road surfaces.But a huge improvement overall.
It's an ABBA stand. Had it years and fitted many bikes including my Hornet, Street Triple and Diavel.
You just have to buy adaptors for your specific bike.
Motorcycle Equipment - Abba Stands, UK


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Have to agree I have been using an ABBA stand (including front lift) on my Hypermotard for a year now and I am super happy with it. Great people, great product.
Hey folks,

We got back home late evening on the 4th, a bit over 4200 miles for the trip. Had a blast and the bike did great. We avoided interstates and kept to the secondary roads, some of the plenty rough. Prior to the suspension mods I'm certain the 500 mile days would have beat me to death. I do wish I'd gone with a lighter spring as I'm still on the lightest preload even fully loaded with luggage, but no way to know til you try. Seems like this 476 in/lb spring should work very well for those in the 175-225lb range. Doug's at 175 with gear and he feels it's perfect.

Sarah
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Sarah - sounds like you had great trip, lots of miles on secondary roads would be fun. Were you happy with the fork preload spacer fix? Reading from your post that the rear shock still needs work, or replacement. Shampone & Gandalf - thanks for the recommendation on the ABBA stand, ordered one several days ago.
Hi GreenBonnie,

Still plenty stiff front and rear as I'm a fairly light rider, but much, much improved over factory. I would not hesitate to do both mods again, but would check on a lighter spring for the shock. It was all guess work this first go round.

Sarah
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Hi Sarah,

Thanks for the information and for blazing this path. I'm guessing the suspension was not calibrated for lighter people (I'm about 150 lbs. w/ gear) riding rough secondary roads, plus the components are budget quality. To me, the hash suspension is the Scrambler's biggest flaw and probably contributes much to the complaints about the seat and abrupt low speed throttle response. It's unfortunate that the left fork sounds difficult to disassemble. On most other machines that I've owned, a swap of fork springs would alleviate at least some of the suspension problems. On our Scramblers, this replacement doesn't appear to be a simple task. I live in a rural area, so looking for solutions that can be done at home (with my basic skills and tools) or by sending the forks to a suspension specialist for cartridge or spring replacement, which while expensive, may be worthwhile. Neat machine, but the suspension is bad for me.
See less See more
Cutting down the right fork preload spacer transformed my forks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sarah

You and your "mechanic" have done a great job at finding low cost solutions to the suspension

Would it be too much to ask to have you call Racetech and share your experience to get their feedback? The question I would have is whether they think a shorter spring vs lower spring rate would be better.

I'm fairly light as well 150 dry, perhaps 165 with gear and carry maybe another 50 lbs when loaded. If you think your spring would work for me, I could buy it from you and you could buy a better one for yourself.

Ideally I can make a plan and upgrade before a road trip in early September.

Have fun and thanks for sharing your experience

Phil
See less See more
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top