[gier]

Hi guys,

I bought the Mivv No-kat mid-pipe a month ago, with the intention of having the cat on my 1100 Special removed. Bought it online in the UK, brought it back here to Malaysia with the intention of having it professionally installed.

However, with the lockdown in effect, getting to the shop is somewhat fraught. So I'm thinking of doing it myself.

Initially, I thought it would be a simple operation, but having spent a bit of time staring at the bike, and looking things up online, I'm thinking it's rather more involved.

Having said that, I'm still willing to give it a go. I'm not completely useless (I think) but am far from being an expert. The last time I did any proper maintenance work on a bike was more than 20 years ago with my KLR650.

But ... a couple of questions.

1. I'm assuming I would need to remove the exhausts as well as the pipes before the header. Is this correct? I initially thought all I needed to do was remove the mid-pipe, but no ... not that easy.

2. I'm assuming I need to disconnect this bit here:

which I think is the lambda sensor. Where is that connected to? As in, where exactly is the control module? Under the seat?

3. The Mivv No-kat pipe does not have any mountings for that bit, so I'm assuming it's safe to remove it entirely. Is this assumption correct?

4. Should I just get it done by someone with an actual clue?

Thanks guys, and stay safe. I hope I'm not being a twat about this.

 

[Gasman]

It’s quite easy if some tells you what to do.
The valve you have shown is a flap that opens and closes in the pipe. It doesn’t serve any purpose other than alter the “volume” at certain revs. This is controlled by a servo motor under the seat. This can also be removed but unless you fit a Healtech (or similar) servo eliminator it will show a fault on the dash. This just plugs into the loom on the left of the battery which you need to remove to gain access. Once this is done everything can be removed no problem.
The mid pipe comes from the joint under the right footpeg, so remove everything back from that, then reassemble the new stuff from there.
Ensure that you use ceramic anti seize compound on all joints.
Any more questions just ask. I’ve had mine on and off about 3 times now for various reasons
One thing to note, when you are removing the mid pipe it looks like it won’t come out of the frame but persevere it comes out quite easily when you work it out. It’s like one of those Chinese puzzles you think can’t be done.

 

[gier]

Thanks for the tips and instructions, Gasman.

I've not got any ceramic anti-seize, though. I do have a tub of copper grease, and am contemplating whether that'd be good enough.

I'm going to go and source the servo eliminator too then. Don't think I'd be able to stand having a fault permanently displayed on the dash.

Thanks again. I'll update how I get on.

 

[Gasman]

Copper slip will not do as the exhaust gets far too hot. It has to be a high temperature compound like ceramic or maybe similar. The one I got was posted to me from Germany off eBay. If you don’t use it you will not be able to get your exhaust apart in the future.

 

[Skippy'73]

Copper slip will not do as the exhaust gets far too hot. It has to be a high temperature compound like ceramic or maybe similar. The one I got was posted to me from Germany off eBay. If you don’t use it you will not be able to get your exhaust apart in the future.

Copper grease has been designed to be heat resistant and operates well under conditions of temperature extremes. It demonstrates excellent anti-seize characteristics at temperatures well over 1,000° celsius.
So I think it will be fine. I prefer the ceramic though.

 

[gier]

That's ... interesting. I read somewhere else that copper grease may not be able to handle that high a temp -- and because I read it on the Interwebs, there's no reason to believe that it's untrue, of course. At any rate, I've gone an ordered a small tube of ceramic grease, rated to up to 1950 C.

I'm going to go and read my copper grease tub to see if it says anything there, as well.

Had also contacted the local Healtech distributor for the servo eliminator and he said he's added it into the list of stuff he's ordering from Healtech.

I suppose it might take a while before I'm cat-less, but it's cool, I can wait.

And thanks for the help, guys!

 

[Skippy'73]

That's ... interesting. I read somewhere else that copper grease may not be able to handle that high a temp -- and because I read it on the Interwebs, there's no reason to believe that it's untrue, of course. At any rate, I've gone an ordered a small tube of ceramic grease, rated to up to 1950 C.

I'm going to go and read my copper grease tub to see if it says anything there, as well.

Had also contacted the local Healtech distributor for the servo eliminator and he said he's added it into the list of stuff he's ordering from Healtech.

I suppose it might take a while before I'm cat-less, but it's cool, I can wait.

And thanks for the help, guys!

The ceramic stuff is certainly the way to go for the exhaust joints so if you ordered it already just use that. Only a very thin layer on all contacting surfaces and you be fine. I only use my hands to put everything together, don't go using hammers if things don't slide in place, it should go pretty smoothly. Good luck!

 

[Gasman]

I also read on the internet that copper grease won’t handle the temperature. I’ll try it later putting some on a metal plate and heat it with my blowlamp on the opposite side. Got nothing else to do.

 

[gier]

Strangely enough, my copper grease tub says this:

And I reckon 1000C is plenty hot ...

Oh ... actually it's not vanilla copper grease. It's fancy clay-based anti-seize grease "containing copper". Mate of mine went to Australia and got me this, a while back.

 

[Skippy'73]

Strangely enough, my copper grease tub says this:

View attachment 44633

And I reckon 1000C is plenty hot ...

Oh ... actually it's not vanilla copper grease. It's fancy clay-based anti-seize grease "containing copper". Mate of mine went to Australia and got me this, a while back.

Hahaha, 1000° is plenty I think in most normal conditions Looks like pretty good stuff.

 

[Gasman]

Must be good stuff if it’s produced in Australia, because it’s hotter there than in the U.K.

 

[Gasman]

Did my test this afternoon.
Used a piece of steel approx 2mm thick and applied a thin coating of copper slip paste from a tube.
I heated the back of the metal with my blowlamp and tested the temperature with a laser thermometer that I have previously used on central heating.
At approx 250C the copper slip burst into flames and I definitely did not touch it with the naked light.
Make of this scientific test what you will

 

[Gasman]

Sorry had problems uploading photo so had to make a second post.

 

[gier]

Your dedication to research and truth is truly inspiring, Gasman.

Got my ceramic grease already now. Waiting for the Healtech to arrive.

 

[Skippy'73]

Did my test this afternoon.
Used a piece of steel approx 2mm thick and applied a thin coating of copper slip paste from a tube.
I heated the back of the metal with my blowlamp and tested the temperature with a laser thermometer that I have previously used on central heating.
At approx 250C the copper slip burst into flames and I definitely did not touch it with the naked light.
Make of this scientific test what you will

Interesting but I guess your method is flawed Also it would be interesting to know what the ceramic paste does under the same test conditions.
Did your copper slip paste tube say anything about it's heat resistance? I know copper slip is also used on the back of brake pads a lot and those sure can get hot, under extreme braking.
Still a nice project I guess when you are in lock down over in the UK.

 

[Gasman]

Your pushing it now Skippy.
Will do the same test with the ceramic tomorrow, but, my thermometer doesn’t go high enough for very high temperatures so will work on getting the metal red hot and see what happens.

edit to post
Just dug the old tube out of the bin. All it says is it won’t burn or wash offl

 

[Skippy'73]

Your pushing it now Skippy.
Will do the same test with the ceramic tomorrow, but, my thermometer doesn’t go high enough for very high temperatures so will work on getting the metal red hot and see what happens.

Hahaha, I think that's the best method. Try getting the metal up to about 400/500 ° celsius and the put on the copper slip or the ceramic paste. The way you did it the first time by heating it from the back gets a way to high temp(I'm guessing) asuming that the flame of a blow lamp gets up to a 1000° quite easely.

 

[Gasman]

Skippy
I did the same test with the ceramic paste. It also lit but didn’t burn away like the copper slip, it stayed like a paste.
It seems my test wasn’t that good. But I’m a gasman not a scientist. ?

 

[Skippy'73]

Skippy
I did the same test with the ceramic paste. It also lit but didn’t burn away like the copper slip, it stayed like a paste.
It seems my test wasn’t that good. But I’m a gasman not a scientist. ?

Hahaha, well at least is keeps you bussy?? Still sounds like the ceramic is pretty stable in hot conditions.

 

[Coolcatshaft]

Gier, did you get round to fitting the mid pipe yet? I wondered what your impressions of it were in terms of sound change and any difference in heat output with the cat gone.

I've fitted the Healtech ESE-D01 and simply disconnected the servo for now so the exhaust valve stays open. I'm planning on changing the mid pipe for a de-cat, either the Mivv or the arrow.