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Could you share the details? :D
Sadly I can not as I haven't done it myself. The dealer did this and in the try damaged the endcap on wich we had to wait months to replace(they are stuck in really tight when the rivits are removed, others have also tried with little succes). The trick with the extra hole wasn't known then but if I had to do it all again I would have just gone that way.
 

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Sadly I can not as I haven't done it myself. The dealer did this and in the try damaged the endcap on wich we had to wait months to replace(they are stuck in really tight when the rivits are removed, others have also tried with little succes). The trick with the extra hole wasn't known then but if I had to do it all again I would have just gone that way.
Ouch, sorry to hear that. I didn鈥檛 touch mines yet, is the trick with the extra hole risk-free enough? How is it done?

Thanks!
 

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Ouch, sorry to hear that. I didn鈥檛 touch mines yet, is the trick with the extra hole risk-free enough? How is it done?

Thanks!
Well in the end it all turned out very nice but it just isn't worth the trouble and risk. I had a deal with my dealer that I would only buy the endcans if the db killers where removable so they took on all the work end when it went wrong they fixed everything without any extra charge.
The drill method is pretty much risk free if you are carefull and check if the bolts are srill in the same hidden place just to be shure.
This how to should pretty much answer all your questions I think. When the bolts are removed it sometimes still might be hard to pull the db killers out with a pair of pliers but if you use a slide hammer or create something yourself to tap them out(I used a long rod with a bolt atatched that fitted threw the exhaust exit so I could tap it out from the inside with the bolt hitting the edge of the db killer pipe inside the end can). Just be carefull and patient and don't use crazy amounts of force.
Good luck! The sound will be worth it馃槈
 

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Bit the bullet and got a decat link pipe from Lextek, going to have a go myself when I get the time and if it does not go over the front section I can get a local mechanic to flare it out slightly.

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The newer pro models have an oversized mouth to the link pipe and use a gasket and a clamp, there is also no spring underneath
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Hoping to simply slide it on with some ceramic paste and no longer use the clamp and gasket. Lets see...

Does the back section including the end cans need to come off first? Or can I just slide the cat section downwards and out?
 

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So an update on this... It ended up being tricky so I took it to a local independent who worked with a welder to fit it. Apparently it was not straight forward. Needed cutting and a new sleeve welding on the front and also some adjustment to the rear connection to get it all to fit well. So overall would NOT recommend the Lextek midpipe if you have a Pro model.

Looks nice now that it's on. Probably a 15% increase in volume, a little bit more overrun popping which is really what I was after. The new pipe seems about a third of the weight of the OE cat. Definitely a little more snarl from 4000rpm upwards.
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