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Discussion Starter #1
Whilst I do want to eliminate the stock Icon plate holder & eventually go with a tail tidy...I found it is a useful position for rigging some luggage straps.

I am waiting on some for more permanent options for luggage, until the aftermarket catches up a bit. So I rummaged through the left-overs that are stored in my garage and came up with a temporary solution for traveling.

I used bungees around the plate holder, to keep things snug enough rearward when the suspension compresses. The front straps are solidly tied into the pillion pegs, so I can lean against the backrest, if desired.

I even found an old Freedom-Air seat pad that still holds air.

The throw over saddlebags, I mounted on a 10 3/4 inch long board covered with leather-look Naugahyde that I had from some previous project. This allows them to sit right and not interfere with the rear tire.

It is quick-change, on/off as you can see in this little demo...

 

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Cool!! Do be careful with bungees, those mean hooks make me nervous sometimes. I have yet to see a Scrambler, but for luggage stand-offs I was wondering about a simple diagonal running from the rear of the seat (I think there are some threaded bosses somewhere) down to the passenger peg bracket. Would something like that work? Thanks again for the neat video!

Sarah
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool!! Do be careful with bungees, those mean hooks make me nervous sometimes.




These bungees have plastic hooks and nothing is going to rub the bike.

I have yet to see a Scrambler, but for luggage stand-offs I was wondering about a simple diagonal running from the rear of the seat (I think there are some threaded bosses somewhere) down to the passenger peg bracket. Would something like that work?
Yes, it might work for the right type of case but due to the shape of the seat, things are not square...
(hence the 10 3/4 inch board insert).

The "hooks" or "grab rails" under the seat are not far enough rearward for my use. I needed to keep the roll bag as far towards the rear as possible to leave me with some decent seating room up front. Note the angle of the straps;






Yes, there are two "threaded bosses" under the seat and 4 more (two each side-with plastic plugs inserted) under the grab rails and there was/is many possible options for making custom connections.

I opted for this arrangement out of the desire to keep it simple and not have to bolt on/off anything, to go from carry mode to cruise mode.


Thanks again for the neat video!

Sarah
Prego!

and Grazie...You gave me and idea! I will see if I can do cross-over on the straps and clean this connection up a bit more.

(For some reason, when I was working on this, it did not look that it would work but now I can't remember why...so I am going to re-visit this...it is raining so not much else to do now.)
 

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Great, looking forward to Part II. I'm more on the short side (5'5") and tend to always sit close to the tank, so I like to keep luggage forward and low. Just a simple something to keep throw-overs out of the wheel is all I need. Nothing like a rainy day piddling in the garage, post back when you can. Enjoy!

Sarah
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK Sarah...Part II:

No visible straps when mounted now:








BUT...these little things are visible when bags are off (not going to bother taking them on/off).





Nylon straps (cut & flamed so not to unravel--bolt hole melted in with soldering iron) to hold welded rings

Stainless steel bolts (8M x 1.25 thread x 12mm length) & washers (8M)



NOTE: If you want to use these sub-rail threaded positions, pull out the plastic plugs and carefully thread a bolt in then remove...there is some paint in the threads and it will be difficult to work with until you run an bolt in & out 1st.
 

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Brilliant Ogre :) Well thought out,

I put 4 half inch cable clamps in those holes under the seat, but those "D" rings are a brilliant idea, :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Brilliant Ogre :) Well thought out,

I put 4 half inch cable clamps in those holes under the seat, but those "D" rings are a brilliant idea, :)
I actually used welded O rings but D rings would work. But make sure they are welded closed (many are not).

My experience with D rings, in the past, has shown me they tend to get "out-of-whack".

That is, the curved part doesn't stay where it belongs. With a round ring, no worries.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got my new clutch lever today and did a nice test ride for about an hour. Luggage & seat pad are working fine (they were empty today-will trial pack them for tomorrow's ride). Nice to be able to lean on the back rest but it is far enough back to not lean as well, when I want to move around. Also the rear shock is on position 2 now (next to the weakest preload). That also is nice. It made a big difference, I thought, for just changing it one position. (my weight without gear is 165 pounds) The roads that I was on today were like bombed-out disaster areas...This video clip is one of the rare smoother parts:

 

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hi Ogre, will these fit on the underseat frame holes?




Tech Specs - Unique stainless fastener – CNC 6061-T6 components - 19mm nylon loop - Nylon washer - 10-year guarantee - 10mm(H) x 30mm(Dia) - Fits any thickness of fender - Easy fit - drill 4 x 6 mm holes - Low weight - 25g per loop.
 

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Sorry to butt in Hedo, :rolleyes: But the frame holes are 8mm threads, :(

But it's a great idea, maybe you could modify them
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The thread size of the frame holes is 8mm x 1.25 thread and length has very limited access. I recommend 12 mm length.

My local hardware store sells all the hardware needed for under 10 dollars US, if you go with stainless steel. Under 5 dollars if regular steel is used.

I will get a picture & add it shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
here are a couple views;





You need to pull these plastic plugs out of the holes to expose the threads.

I used my fingernails to pull out plugs.

 

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Thank you again for the excellent pictures. Very handy of Ducati to put those threaded bosses there.

Sarah
 
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