I've looked into it, and there isn't much... The scrambler is unique in that it has an 18" front wheel and only one brake mount. The forks from a Hypermotard would fit the triple trees and provide enough clearance for the wheel, but you would still have an extra brake mount. I've decided that a full cartridge kit is really the only way to go.
Scrambler Forks
After a bit of searching, I didn't see anything, if this has been discussed feel free to post the link.
As spring time approaches, my thought of riding has become harder to suppress. Since riding isn't an option, the next best thing will be to spend money on the bike and have it ready for spring.
While I know there are a few companies that offer complete fork packages, or cartridge upgrades, are there any other Ducati motorcycles that the forks could be swapped? I'm going to assume nothing is a direct swap, but it seems like ebay has a wide variety of forks for a reasonable dollar.
Thoughts, suggestions, and opinions are welcome
Thanks!
CB
As spring time approaches, my thought of riding has become harder to suppress. Since riding isn't an option, the next best thing will be to spend money on the bike and have it ready for spring.
While I know there are a few companies that offer complete fork packages, or cartridge upgrades, are there any other Ducati motorcycles that the forks could be swapped? I'm going to assume nothing is a direct swap, but it seems like ebay has a wide variety of forks for a reasonable dollar.
Thoughts, suggestions, and opinions are welcome
Thanks!
CB
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
This helps. I guess the extra brake mount wouldn't be the end of the world. You could always run dual discs in the front I guess.
I was looking at it as more a bang for you buck type deal.
New cartridge kits are right around $700ish. Ive seen hypermotard forks on ebay for 2-300.
Instead in hearing more feedback though!
I was looking at it as more a bang for you buck type deal.
New cartridge kits are right around $700ish. Ive seen hypermotard forks on ebay for 2-300.
Instead in hearing more feedback though!
Andreani Group is showing a Ohlin's complete fork replacement...
This has been mentioned elsewhere, but here is the link: Andreani Group sito ufficiale
This has been mentioned elsewhere, but here is the link: Andreani Group sito ufficiale
Its just next to impossible to justify $3000 forks for a $8000 bike
I hadn't investigated the pricing...yep.. that's steep
What are replacement forks normally?
What are replacement forks normally?
Normally around $2,000 for a set of Ohlins forks for most sport motorcycles. The Scrambler kits is so expensive because it includes a new set of triple trees and some other bits too.I hadn't investigated the pricing...yep.. that's steep
What are replacement forks normally?
Ive seen hypermotard forks on ebay for sub $400. No idea how much better they would be, or any at all.
Charlie, My Andreani cartridges work fine, also SBKen has made some very similar which are a little larger on diameter that should be even better, give Ken a call I'm sure he'll be only to pleased to advise you,
Hello
The cheapiest fork mod is just to remove 2 cm high in oil level, in each forkleg. You get immediatly a better behaviour on compression.
Then, you can go for springs change : Wilbers or Hyperpro provide replacement springs for about 150 Euros. This enhances a lot the fork behaviour on rebound, with less hard springs.
Next step is changing the damping cartridge. Maxton provides a cartridge for the right leg, certainly easy to replace by yourself. The Andreani kit, with two cartridge is certainly a better enhancement, but the left fork leg needs to be entirely dismounted and modified and this is not an easy mod.
Last but not least, replace entirely the fork. If an Hypermotard fork fits the triple tee, that's fine. You must just verify that the hydraulic brake command can manage two disks instead of a single one. If yes, you need to find a second hose to connect to the brake command. And you'll also need to find a second disk and hope you can adapt it on the wheel. Quite a large mod...
The cheapiest fork mod is just to remove 2 cm high in oil level, in each forkleg. You get immediatly a better behaviour on compression.
Then, you can go for springs change : Wilbers or Hyperpro provide replacement springs for about 150 Euros. This enhances a lot the fork behaviour on rebound, with less hard springs.
Next step is changing the damping cartridge. Maxton provides a cartridge for the right leg, certainly easy to replace by yourself. The Andreani kit, with two cartridge is certainly a better enhancement, but the left fork leg needs to be entirely dismounted and modified and this is not an easy mod.
Last but not least, replace entirely the fork. If an Hypermotard fork fits the triple tee, that's fine. You must just verify that the hydraulic brake command can manage two disks instead of a single one. If yes, you need to find a second hose to connect to the brake command. And you'll also need to find a second disk and hope you can adapt it on the wheel. Quite a large mod...
Andreani Adjustable Fork Cartridge Kits 105/D15 for Ducati Scrambler 800 2015
Cartridge + springs for $465+ $80 shipping to US. Perhaps another $150 to get them installed or you can do your self. I think a good solution for crappy OEM setup in <$600.
Cartridge + springs for $465+ $80 shipping to US. Perhaps another $150 to get them installed or you can do your self. I think a good solution for crappy OEM setup in <$600.
Hello
So, install it yourself must be considered seriously before going for it.
Google a little bit about Andreani and Scrambler and you'll find that the right leg is easy to install, but the left leg requires a complete dismount of the leg and some machining to modify the bottom of the fork. All these requires some specific skills and tools.Andreani Adjustable Fork Cartridge Kits 105/D15 for Ducati Scrambler 800 2015
Cartridge + springs for $465+ $80 shipping to US. Perhaps another $150 to get them installed or you can do your self..
So, install it yourself must be considered seriously before going for it.
I've just had the Andreani kit installed and couldn't be happier. As long as you order the tool with the kit, any muppet of a shock tech should be able to install them.. Delivered and installed cost me approx. $1000AUD.. which equates to approx. two potatoes and half a pint of shandy to the rest of the world with decent exchange rates. 
Hello
If yes, it's a good news !
So, you mean that there's no modification to do in the left fork leg ? Just get the right tool to dismount the inner cap, to be able to remove the spring and its spacer ?I've just had the Andreani kit installed and couldn't be happier. As long as you order the tool with the kit, any muppet of a shock tech should be able to install them.. Delivered and installed cost me approx. $1000AUD.. which equates to approx. two potatoes and half a pint of shandy to the rest of the world with decent exchange rates.
If yes, it's a good news !
Yes - no modification of the forks required - just the tool to remove and fit.
Sometimes the allen grub screw that stop the lower fork casting unscrewing (needs to be removed to unscrew casting) does not come undone (loctite) and needs to be machined out.
I think that is where the machining confusion comes from.
Sometimes the allen grub screw that stop the lower fork casting unscrewing (needs to be removed to unscrew casting) does not come undone (loctite) and needs to be machined out.
I think that is where the machining confusion comes from.
Hello
You mean that before unscrewing the casting from the tube, you need to unscrew an allen grub from the casting ?
Which tool are you talking about ? A tool to remove the inner cap which holds the spring ? Or another one I could see on Andreani's manual to hold the tube while unscrewing the lower fork casting ?Yes - no modification of the forks required - just the tool to remove and fit.
Sometimes the allen grub screw that stop the lower fork casting unscrewing (needs to be removed to unscrew casting) does not come undone (loctite) and needs to be machined out..
You mean that before unscrewing the casting from the tube, you need to unscrew an allen grub from the casting ?
Vincelp
1. You need to remove the grub screw before unscrewing the lower fork casting
2. The tool is a large hollow tube with 4 prongs - for the bottom leg (not done it myself)
1. You need to remove the grub screw before unscrewing the lower fork casting
2. The tool is a large hollow tube with 4 prongs - for the bottom leg (not done it myself)
Hello
I presume the "lower fork casting" is the black part where the brake calliper is fixed ?
If so, you need to dismount it from the fork leg tube ?
Is the casting screwed on the tube or is it held only by the grub screw you mention ? If it is screwed on the tube, how do you hold the tube while unscrewing the casting ?
Excuse all these questions, but I'm trying to understand how the left fork leg is built, in case I would install by myself an Andreani kit when I won't be satisfied anymore of my Wilbers progressive springs mod.
OK, I've got this tool, I used it to remove the inner cap when I've changed the springs for progressive springs.Vincelp
1. You need to remove the grub screw before unscrewing the lower fork casting
2. The tool is a large hollow tube with 4 prongs - for the bottom leg (not done it myself)
I presume the "lower fork casting" is the black part where the brake calliper is fixed ?
If so, you need to dismount it from the fork leg tube ?
Is the casting screwed on the tube or is it held only by the grub screw you mention ? If it is screwed on the tube, how do you hold the tube while unscrewing the casting ?
Excuse all these questions, but I'm trying to understand how the left fork leg is built, in case I would install by myself an Andreani kit when I won't be satisfied anymore of my Wilbers progressive springs mod.
As i said I have not done it - but believe
1. You remove fork from bike - take top off - drain oil
2. Remove grubscrew at lower fork casting - (brake caliper bolts to this casting) as you mention above.
3. Hold the casting in a vice (with soft jaws to protect it) to keep it stationary
4. Use tool to unscrew the tube from the casting.
5. Then I guess you can fit the Andreani bits and reassemble the reverse of what you did.
1. You remove fork from bike - take top off - drain oil
2. Remove grubscrew at lower fork casting - (brake caliper bolts to this casting) as you mention above.
3. Hold the casting in a vice (with soft jaws to protect it) to keep it stationary
4. Use tool to unscrew the tube from the casting.
5. Then I guess you can fit the Andreani bits and reassemble the reverse of what you did.
I wasn't game enough to tackle this one on my own.. but I believe that's the gist of it.
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
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