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Discussion Starter #1
I have experienced a problem with starting on two occasions in three weeks. The first a couple weeks ago. Following a 200+ mile trip with several stops the bike sat for a few hours and then refused to start. The starter turned over and the engine said puff / puff. I turned it over maybe a dozen attempts in first gear, in neutral, clutch in, clutch out, kickstand up, down. Checked voltage, no problem. The bike sat over night and refused to start in the morning. I made arrangements for transport in the morning. While packing up, I gave it a last try and it coughed and started. Drove home, 200+ miles with stops for food and gas, no issues. Reported the problem at my 600 mile service. The bike had recorded no problem code and was running fine. This week on starting, in the garage while cold, it made a POP and refused to start. Sounded the same it turned over and puff / puff. After a half dozen attempts, this time it started. Has anyone else experienced a similar issue?
 

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Hello Harvey, welcome to the forum. I don't have a Scrambler yet, but trying to learn all I can. Did you give any throttle during any of your attempts to start? I owned an EFI bike some years back and they were known to do this same thing on occasion, the given advice was to hold the throttle wide open while cranking, sure enough that worked every time. I am not suggesting you do this, just sharing past experience. We'll look forward to some Scrambler owners chiming in.

Sarah
 

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Hello Harvey, welcome to the forum. I don't have a Scrambler yet, but trying to learn all I can. Did you give any throttle during any of your attempts to start? I owned an EFI bike some years back and they were known to do this same thing on occasion, the given advice was to hold the throttle wide open while cranking, sure enough that worked every time. I am not suggesting you do this, just sharing past experience. We'll look forward to some Scrambler owners chiming in.

Sarah
Opening the throttle like that allows a large volume of air into the engine and can help to purge an engine of 'flooded' fuel. Unless of course it's fly by wire, nothing opens as throttle bodies are not actioned by the twist grip.
This method works best on carburatored engines and strongly not advised with catalytic convertors. 1) because the raw fuel can damage the precious metals in the cat and 2) the cat is/can be the hottest part of an exhaust, up-to 600 C and could damage the exhaust if the backfire is big enough.
Just some pub trivia for you. Plus I'm bored.
 

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Opening the throttle like that allows a large volume of air into the engine and can help to purge an engine of 'flooded' fuel. Unless of course it's fly by wire, nothing opens as throttle bodies are not actioned by the twist grip.
This method works best on carburatored engines and strongly not advised with catalytic convertors. 1) because the raw fuel can damage the precious metals in the cat and 2) the cat is/can be the hottest part of an exhaust, up-to 600 C and could damage the exhaust if the backfire is big enough.
Just some pub trivia for you. Plus I'm bored.
You may be bored, but you are certainly correct in every way.
 

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I had a similar problem when i first got my Classic. But that was because i would turn the throttle as on carby bikes. now i just push the button and let the electronics manage the fuel and start. .

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Do you shut down by turning the key off or by using the emergency switch ? A guy on another forum had same issue and it showed that using the emergency switch to shut down is not the proper method. It closes electrical circuits in a way that the ECU has difficulties to start over again.
 

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I always use the switch next to the throttle to switch the bike off, never the key, is this wrong? If it is why is it?
 

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Some people have reported that the ugly evaporative canister has caused some start up issues, so far I have been lucky as a California owner I cannot remove mine but that doesn't apply to everyone else. Also was told that over filling the gas tank can cause this as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have used the kickstand switch to stop the engine. I can't remember if I did when this problem has occurred. I have not had a reoccurrence in the last few weeks. I will make a point to use the switch on the handle bar and see if it happens again. Thanks for the tip.
 

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I always use the switch next to the throttle to switch the bike off, never the key, is this wrong? If it is why is it?
I had the same question. I checked with two different, very well experienced Ducati mechanics and they both said it makes absolutely no difference whether you shut the engine off using the key or the emergence shut off switch. Either way has no impact on the ECU system reset. Ive been doing it both ways with no difference. Since the manual says "simply turn the key off" to shut the motor off, I have opted for thst option.
 

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My Icon has failed to start 3 times from cold since being purchased new 4 months ago. Problem appeared more or less immediately after side stand bolt was replaced and initial chief suspect was the side stand ignition cut out switch. Other possibility is the neutral sensor not quite doing its job right. Bike has been handed back to dealer to see if they can replicate fault as so far they unable to find any rogue component. Interesting point being made about not turning off the bike with the kill switch.
 
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