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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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As previously posted had my suspension set up professionally today. It cost me £40 but it’s far better than messing about myself.
It needed far more preload on both the front and back apart from screwdriver twiddling on the compression and rebounds.
Result chalk and cheese. I personally felt that the suspension as standard felt cheap and nasty but now in comparison it feels rather plush.
Photo of rear shock to illustrate how much preload is on, and he said it could have taken more but he didn’t want to make it too tall for me.
 

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Nice work!
I also added about 10mm preload to the back but not as much as on your bike. Everything else I set to the settings that are in the manual and ended with giving it 1 click less rebound at the rear and in the front I gave some extra damping on the bound side.
I am going to get some knobs from Aliexpress to easely adjust the front preload.
I do wonder how tall you are and how much you weigh. Might be a good indication to see if others are going to need mire preload too.
I'm 184cm(6/6,1 feet I guess) and 125 kg(275lb) with my biking gear on.
 

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Hi

Where is the front preload at?

Fr memory mine is at Max

Rear looks similar to yours

Measure how much thread is above the lock washer just as a reference

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
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Can’t tell with the front but he wound it down 2-3 full turns from standard setting.

Ah sorry just realised you were asking about the back I’ll go back and measure it hang on a moment.
Right there is 20mm of thread showing.
 

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I’m 1.75m and 90kg without riding gear.
Thanks, based on those numbers I can definitly uo the preload front and rear. Still I'm pretty pleased with the suspension esspecialy the rear but the front might benefit from some more preload. As I do it myself and not being an expert I don't like to adjust to many things at the same time.
 

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As I said previously - I adjusted my suspension.. This info was posted before..

I am a large guy (115KG)

On Original Settings - the front forks were only originally using about half travel - 70 to 80 mm. (Including Static Sag)

I tried reducing the compression and rebound damping... that was a no no... bike rode like a pogo stick and only marginally more front fork travel.

So reset the compression and rebound damping and wound off the front preload... bike was back to normal ... but no more fork travel usage....

OK - so back to basics - try setting Static and Rider Sag

From Previous Scrambler and FTR was looking for

15 to 25mm Static Sag and 25 to 35 Rider Sag on Forks

5 - 15mm Static Sag Rear and 25 to 35mm Rider Sag

Well with adjusting the preload front and rear.. best compromise I could get

25mm Static Sag and 45mm to 50mm Rider Sag on Front (seemed like the front preload adjusters made no difference) and bike did not always return to same spot - But Front preload is set to Max.

On Rear got to 5mm static Sag and 50mm Rider Sag

So both more than was looking for - but close on the same and still 30 to 33% of the total travel for rider sag.

Took bike out and the handling is much better - bike is firm.. but now am using 125mm of front forks travel - including static sag.... raising the rear has obviously distributed the weight onto the front forks.

Bike now handles like my 800 with the Ohlins and Andreanni....

I will measure the thread showing on my rear shock and post later... Mine is standard - NOT Ohlins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Previously I had Andreani front and Nitron rear on my Tiger 800 set up by the same guy. Now my 1100 feels just like that, like it’s on rails, firm but compliant.
BTW this guy that does mine has contracts with a couple of British Supabike Teams. Is it Supabike or Superbike???
My mates 1050 Tiger had full ohlins and was set up by another professional and when I rode that it felt the same
 

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Previously I had Andreani front and Nitron rear on my Tiger 800 set up by the same guy. Now my 1100 feels just like that, like it’s on rails, firm but compliant.
BTW this guy that does mine has contracts with a couple of British Supabike Teams. Is it Supabike or Superbike???
My mates 1050 Tiger had full ohlins and was set up by another professional and when I rode that it felt the same
Hi gasman,
Hope you are back on track with your health?
Where did you get your suspension setup As could do with my maxtons set up.
Also congrats with your new bike.
Cheers
Armo
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Armo
Nice to hear from you don’t speak about health near me. I’ve now been diagnosed with PVD peripheral vascular disease, lack of blood flow to my legs etc. Had to cancel 2 holidays a river cruise and a month in Australia but the travel insurance paid out. Anyway I’m going on like an old woman back to suspension.
The guy I use is in Preston not a million miles from Leeds. The company is called TW Suspension Tech. He does it from his house. His name is Teut pronounced TOYT it’s German I think don’t mention the war. He is a really nice guy and knows his stuff by all means mention my name.
 

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Armo
Nice to hear from you don’t speak about health near me. I’ve now been diagnosed with PVD peripheral vascular disease, lack of blood flow to my legs etc. Had to cancel 2 holidays a river cruise and a month in Australia but the travel insurance paid out. Anyway I’m going on like an old woman back to suspension.
The guy I use is in Preston not a million miles from Leeds. The company is called TW Suspension Tech. He does it from his house. His name is Teut pronounced TOYT it’s German I think don’t mention the war. He is a really nice guy and knows his stuff by all means mention my name.
Thanks gasman,
Hope it doesn't stop you riding, make sure you look after yourself, your a top bloke and loved meeting you.
Armo
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Armo
Never did get that seat off you so had to change my bike. Keep it upright.
Thanks
Gasman
 

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As I said previously - I adjusted my suspension.. This info was posted before..

I am a large guy (115KG)

On Original Settings - the front forks were only originally using about half travel - 70 to 80 mm. (Including Static Sag)

I tried reducing the compression and rebound damping... that was a no no... bike rode like a pogo stick and only marginally more front fork travel.

So reset the compression and rebound damping and wound off the front preload... bike was back to normal ... but no more fork travel usage....

OK - so back to basics - try setting Static and Rider Sag

From Previous Scrambler and FTR was looking for

15 to 25mm Static Sag and 25 to 35 Rider Sag on Forks

5 - 15mm Static Sag Rear and 25 to 35mm Rider Sag

Well with adjusting the preload front and rear.. best compromise I could get

25mm Static Sag and 45mm to 50mm Rider Sag on Front (seemed like the front preload adjusters made no difference) and bike did not always return to same spot - But Front preload is set to Max.

On Rear got to 5mm static Sag and 50mm Rider Sag

So both more than was looking for - but close on the same and still 30 to 33% of the total travel for rider sag.

Took bike out and the handling is much better - bike is firm.. but now am using 125mm of front forks travel - including static sag.... raising the rear has obviously distributed the weight onto the front forks.

Bike now handles like my 800 with the Ohlins and Andreanni....

I will measure the thread showing on my rear shock and post later... Mine is standard - NOT Ohlins.
Thanks for this write up. Very informative. Looks like I should increase the front preload a lot or even to the max like you did and at the rear I will go for 20mm of thread showing (if this isn't already the case as it was the first thing I adjusted when I got the bike).
Good to hear that you experience the bike with standard shocks as good as the 800 with Öhlins and Andreanni. I had a standard front and Hyperpro 4 way adjustable shock with remote reservoir at the back(wich made a world of difference on the 800) and already felt the 1100 was much nicer. It looks like if I put some more time in setting the front as well even better results could be had.
 

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You definately need to get the back stiff enough - to get the front to work properly...

Checking front travel is easy enough (tyrap) back travel in use not so easy to check.....

When I say Max on front - fully clockwise till it stopped then back out to the arrows align (just for my OCD)

The final position of the compression and rebound damping were as the handbook... I tried adjusting a little both ways but went back to standard... (same on rear shock)

Just a word of caution not to put too much rear preload - so that it takes out all the static sag... I read somewhere that it is important to keep a minimum of 5mm static sag so that the suspension can fully unload at times.. not sure why.... but thought I would add it...
 

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You definately need to get the back stiff enough - to get the front to work properly...

Checking front travel is easy enough (tyrap) back travel in use not so easy to check.....

When I say Max on front - fully clockwise till it stopped then back out to the arrows align (just for my OCD)

The final position of the compression and rebound damping were as the handbook... I tried adjusting a little both ways but went back to standard... (same on rear shock)

Just a word of caution not to put too much rear preload - so that it takes out all the static sag... I read somewhere that it is important to keep a minimum of 5mm static sag so that the suspension can fully unload at times.. not sure why.... but thought I would add it...
I set the back up to a smidge over 20mm of thread showing(this way the spring was in a nicer looking position). As I carry a lot more weight then Gasman and yourself I can't go wrong here. I also gave it one click more rebound damping as this should be the way to go when you increase preload. When I rode it this is easely adjusted if I don't like this setting.
At the front I went to max preload and then backed it off half a turn. For rebound and compression damping I turned both screws all the way in clockwise and then turned them back a full turn. The manual states 2 clicks back from maximum but the screws in the front don't click so I'm guessing it should say turns(if yours do click please let me know).
Sadly there's no time to ride but I'm realy curious to see how this turned out. I will keep you posted.
Thanks for all the sharing, I know a lot about the theory of static sag but to make this measurements on your own is pretty much impossible.
The info shared by you and Gasman(esspecialy as his suspension was set by a professional) is very usefull. It's very easyvto get things very wrong. I saw plenty of guys with shiny Öhlins shocks that bounced and skipped all over the place when you rode behind them on group rides where other bikes rode along smoothly.
 

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Yes - turns not clicks on the front... just checked mine again and its 2 1/4 turns out - so the screws point slot front to back.... (OCD) on both legs...
 

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Yes - turns not clicks on the front... just checked mine again and its 2 1/4 turns out - so the screws point slot front to back.... (OCD) on both legs...
Cool!Nice to know that it's just wrong in the manual.With one turn I'm a bit stiffer up front but as I'm heavier this might be the way to go. If it's to harsh I just turn it down a bit.
 

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On forks - fit a tyrap on the leg... with your weight - preload should be max (or more - stiffer springs)

The rebound and compression damping can be adjusted to suit your riding - but suggest that including the static sag you never use more than 125mm and look to be between 110 and 125mm of travel under normal riding including hard braking and speed bumps / pot holes... then adjust the damping to get those values - that way you are using 70 to 80% suspension travel - which is optimum - leaving some reserve to stop bottoming out under emergencies..
 

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On forks - fit a tyrap on the leg... with your weight - preload should be max (or more - stiffer springs)

The rebound and compression damping can be adjusted to suit your riding - but suggest that including the static sag you never use more than 125mm and look to be between 110 and 125mm of travel under normal riding including hard braking and speed bumps / pot holes... then adjust the damping to get those values - that way you are using 70 to 80% suspension travel - which is optimum - leaving some reserve to stop bottoming out under emergencies..
I will try that and use those guidelines to see where I'm at. I've replaced many rear springs on bikes but never felt the need to change the front though.
Great info and tips. It's nice that now that I have a front fork that offers that much adjustability to actually use it and get it properly set up.
 
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