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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to install two 10W auxiliary lights on the bike.
I have this harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014OS8E7Y

I was originally going to tap into the battery directly (via the battery tender plug). I think it may be a better idea to tap into the back of the USB charger circuit under the seat so that the power automatically cuts off when the bike is turned off and there is no risk of forgetting the lights on and depleting the battery.


My questions are :
  1. Is tapping into the USB charger circuit a good idea? (if not, please explain why)
  2. If this is a good idea, do I still need the relay, and the fuse that come with the harness or should I cut them out?
 

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its never a good idea to attach higher current devices to another circuit .For the simple reasons that the circuit wasn't designed to take the extra load and its better to have separate fuse protection for the new devices.
the good news here is that you can do both.
Again simplistically you only need to switch the relay on and off from another circuit which isn't powered on when bike is off. USB could work as you suggested.
the awkward part here is that according to the schematic on amazon the power feed to the on off button (green wire) is attached to the main power feed and is all covered at the relay .
The only point of access for the wire may be the joiner in the middle.
So in short wire up as per the schematic on amazon remove the green wire at the joiner on the switch side and connect that wire to an alternate supply.
alll very easy on paper.
45262
1594250859435.png
 

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Discussion Starter #3
its never a good idea to attach higher current devices to another circuit .For the simple reasons that the circuit wasn't designed to take the extra load and its better to have separate fuse protection for the new devices.
the good news here is that you can do both.
Again simplistically you only need to switch the relay on and off from another circuit which isn't powered on when bike is off. USB could work as you suggested.
the awkward part here is that according to the schematic on amazon the power feed to the on off button (green wire) is attached to the main power feed and is all covered at the relay .
The only point of access for the wire may be the joiner in the middle.
So in short wire up as per the schematic on amazon remove the green wire at the joiner on the switch side and connect that wire to an alternate supply.
alll very easy on paper.
View attachment 45262 View attachment 45262
Thank you for the detailed response!

I suspect that the green line you are referring to is to power the red led on the switch itself that indicates when the switch is turned off (silly feature) so the switch still gets power even when it is physically turned off. I do not care for that indication led and may actually replace the switch altogether with a simpler toggle switch that has no indication led.

Assuming that is the purpose of that green wire, and please correct me if I am wrong, can I just ignore it (leave it intact) and simply take the red and black wires from the harness that are meant to be hooked up directly to the battery and just tap those into the two coresponding wires behind the usb charger, all this while leaving the harness' relay, fuse, and switch as is? Would the auxilary lights still safely be operated with the control of the switch?

Thanks again for all the clarification!
 

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I'm no auto electrician by any stretch of the imagination, so don't take my comments with any sort of authority, but this is what I would consider...

Connect the ring terminals to the battery. Connect the black wire from the switch to ground. Connect the green wire from the switch to the live feed on the USB socket. Connect the white wire from the switch to terminal 4 on the relay. Be sure not to connect the green wire to terminal 1 on the switch (this should go to live on the USB socket as explained above).

If I'm right, this would mean the switch LEDs would only work when ignition is on. The relay would only kick in if both the ignition and the switch were on.

Someone who knows more than me, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Edit: reading Drwalrus post above, this is pretty much the same as what he said ... Doh!
 

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You have to be careful with the Canbus system the Ducati does some interesting things that you don’t expect. It has caught me out a couple of times. I connected a brake light modulator to the brake lights but couldn’t programme it because the ecu detected there was something wrong and cut power to the circuit. So watch out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You have to be careful with the Canbus system the Ducati does some interesting things that you don’t expect. It has caught me out a couple of times. I connected a brake light modulator to the brake lights but couldn’t programme it because the ecu detected there was something wrong and cut power to the circuit. So watch out.
Thanks for the heads up. I did not know. I already have a brake flasher module which I have yet gotten around to install. I am hoping I did not buy it for nothing...

I would still like to try installing it. Please confirm that the canbus system did restore the power to your brake light circuit after you removed the module. I would not want to have to take the bike to the dealership to straighten up the software or clear up error codes.
 

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Hi
Yes the power did restore to the brake light. The work around was to remove and wire the unit to a loose bulb and set it to the mode you want. Then reinstall it and it works fine, it’s a Healtech by the way. They may have updated it now after I told them of the problem.
 
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