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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm either stupid or blind...or both.

My issue is that the throttle tube currently twists/travels less than a quarter of the way around and, as recently as last Friday (last time I rode it), I'm sure it went further than that.

What changed?
A friend binned my bike last Friday resulting in some surprisingly minor damage (although he ended up with a broken ankle, serious bruises, and a helmet that needs replacing). I did a quick safety check on the bike and was able to ride it home without issue.

One bit of damage was to the front brake lever and bar-end mirrors. Decided this would be a good time to swap the OEM grips with Biltwell Thrusters which I cut the ends off of.

I remove the bashed up bar-end mirrors, front brake lever and old grips.
Put a bit of soapy water inside the new throttle grip and twist it on clockwise over the throttle tube, in the direction of closing the throttle, about 30 seconds of firm twisting.
Put on the new front brake lever.
Put on the new bar-end mirror.
Check the travel of the mirrors, brake, and throttle.

Symptoms:
I notice the throttle comes to a hard stop at less than a 1/4 turn with an audible knock in the throttle body area.
The throttle tube isn't touching the bar-end.
The tube isn't sticking or difficult to twist.
I look in the throttle tube cam area and throttle body. The cam stops and rests appropriately in the closed position (throttle off) and doesn't appear to be snagging. Nothing looks out of place to me, but I've also not stuck my nose in them before.

I haven't started the bike after swapping these parts to hear if the throttle position is altered and impacts rev range or idle as my exhaust slip on was trashed and its replacement is in transit.



Anybody have any ideas? Something has to be amiss (how could changing the grips, mirrors, or brake lever significantly alter the travel of the throttle tube) or maybe I'm just nuts and it was always this way? How far can you twist your throttle?
 

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Check the routing of the cable inside the housing of the throttle grip. It could have slipped off the plastic guide thingy inside the housing.

While you’re at it, make sure the bars are straight (they could have bent right where the throttle housing sits).

And of course the obvious: check the new grip doesn’t rub the throttle housing or the bar end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check the routing of the cable inside the housing of the throttle grip. It could have slipped off the plastic guide thingy inside the housing.

While you’re at it, make sure the bars are straight (they could have bent right where the throttle housing sits).

And of course the obvious: check the new grip doesn’t rub the throttle housing or the bar end.
Cable is in the guide over the cam, no issues there.

Bars sure look straight to me. The cheap bar end mirrors barely took much damage which leads me to believe there wasn't much impact on the bars, but good thinking.

No rubbing or issues with bar end or grips. I can pull the cable at the cam with some pliers and it stops in the same place.
 

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How easy does the throttle twist completely installed except for the cable?

(Serious, I think your bar is bent)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
How easy does the throttle twist completely installed except for the cable?

(Serious, I think your bar is bent)

With the cable removed, the tube turns until the cam contacts the metal housing. Literally couldn't go any further. 1/3+ of the way around.

Edit: How easy? Very easily.
 

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I have a 2017 throttle body in a 2015 bike. It moves exactly a 1/4 turn from shut to max. It may be just me but i thought the travel on the 2015 body was a little less. So maybe what you have is normal. Depending what year bike you have.
I´d check that the black throttle cable sleeve is seated properly in the slack adjuster at the top. Then check that you have a little slack in the cable to be sure that adjuster didnt get damaged or moved in the fall.
Don´t worry about the silencer, just start it up and see if it idles at the right revs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright, the idle seemed a little bit high-ish...1.5k, roughly. I can't remember what the idle was before but I feel like it was a little bit closer to 1.25k.

Loosened the bar clamps and moved the bars forward a couple degrees. Idle lowered closer to memory and I can easily hit redline with a twist of the wrist.

I don't think the bars are/were bent, but probably pushed backwards.

Thanks everyone for the extra opinions on this.
 
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