I wonder about 15, too. Something we found helpful: At the start, push down 14 along with A; this seemed to help break the grip A's little fingers have on 14.
I have the same "Workshop" manual. It gives no idea about (15) either and is pretty useless about how to separate the fuel union. Thanks to Rick for posting a clear description of how to separate them.
Good evening. I removed the tank some days ago and want to put it back now. Unfortunately I did not mark which hose belongs to which hole in the pump. The holes are marked with grey and white rings but the hoses look equal. Is anyone able to help?
Good evening. I removed the tank some days ago and want to put it back now. Unfortunately I did not mark which hose belongs to which hole in the pump. The holes are marked with grey and white rings but the hoses look equal. Is anyone able to help?
No, everything as described in the thread. But my wife hold the tank while I removed the hoses. However it took some time to get the hoses back in place without folding them.
Used this thread to help remove the tank today and have to say it went way easier than i was expecting thanks to the tips in here. I’d already removed my EVAP canister so the breather hoses weren’t a problem at all and the fuel connects were cake when both pushed in together and then hold the collar and pull on the nipple. Providing a few photos so anyone wondering what it’s gonna look like knows what they’re going into. I will say the fuel pump electrical connector is in a dumb spot so I had to twist the one fuel line so that the nipple would clear upon disconnection. But all in all, the tank was off in like 10 minutes.
Mine into the shop (27000mi) for valve check. One of the fittings broke. The shop manager was surprised and ordered a dozen. Parts arrive Tuesday. Fitting replace and tank install is all that's left to do.
Which fitting, Andy? Putting the tank back on after this valve check, and we've not been able to get the gray connector/collar to latch on to the fuel pipe elbow. Nothing looks damaged or out of place on the collar, little fingers all there and springy just like the other connector. One thing, it seems the flange (A) has lost some of it's up and down movement, it's not locked up completely, but there's more play in the black connector for sure. Going back thru some of the threads I'm starting to get a sick feeling, here's a copy and paste of a post from Josh a year or so ago:
"I did this once because one of the plastic connectors had been broken by a main dealer and I had to try and get it back on.
I would recommend anyone avoid this if possible, the plastic collar on the connector is utter crap. Fragile and VERY difficult to get off. If you break one of the teeth inside the part labelled 'A' you have to order a whole new fuel cassette for £450+
When I watched a different dealer take the tank off, the plastic collar (A) has to be squeezed/pinched from the side at two specific points. This releases the locking teeth inside the collar and with a fair amount of force, the fuel line can be pulled out.
The problem being, if you don't squeeze in the right place and yank the fuel line out too forcefully, it breaks the connector and you are up shit creek.
Which is exactly what a useless mechanic did to my bike. Then shoved the fuel line back in and hoped I'd never notice... Luckly I didn't end up with petrol all over my legs like some, the fuel line just popped out when I had to go correct the pinched breather pipe, also caused by the clueless mechanic.
BE SUPER CAREFUL removing the fuel lines on this bike. The plastic connectors are utter garbage."
I'm trying not to panic, but oh me. Do you have the details on exactly what broke and is being replaced? Thanks!
Has anyone fitted one of these?
I want a clip on/off tank bag for convenience and this seems the way forward.
Original QUICK-LOCK tank ring, for mounting of tank bags.
I was thinking to reverse the tank cap at the same time as it gets in the way in its current fitting direction.
Fitting...
I recently purchased a scrambler that went down and needs a front end (forks, triple tree, wheel, axle, headlight assembly). The stock front end is very difficult to find for a reasonable price and I was wondering if a front end from other Ducati models would fit. For example would say a Monster...
Was a a bike meetup recently and a guy had an aftermarket slip on exhaust pipe with CAT removed. Was wondering if the will mess up airflow/performance?
I am considering ceramic coating on my tank. I have had the tank painted and clear coated / lacquered and want to protect the finish.
Has any one tried this on their bike or car? And can you give me any opinions or tips on the subject?
Thanks
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