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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Olllrite! Spent a few hours this weekend to install a new rear tire, and seal the rims so I can ride tubeless. been wanting this for a long time. I never liked the idea of spooning these tires off in the middle of nowhere if I ever had a flat, and boy was I right! These are tough mf's!

I used a tire stand/bead breaker like this, and a few tire spoons. One of which 2' long, the rest were shorties. I used 3M 4412N tape to seal the rims, and a few 90 degree valve stems from Amazon (the 8.3mm ones, so I didn't have to drill the holes). Sealing the rear rim was a straight forward job. Clean the rim with brake cleaner, install the tape. Roll/rub the tape down everywhere -this activates the sticky layer-, and use a small piece to bond the ends together. After I was done I installed the valve stem, and as a final protection layer I put the rim band back on. I know how tight the STR sits on the rim, and I didn't want the tire to mess up the tape.


Front was a bit harder because of the well in the rim, and the spoke holes that are close to the rim wall. I used the same 2" tape which is actually too wide to sit in the deep section of the rim. I knew this in advance and masked off the part of the rim where the tire sit once installed with electrical tape, so I could cut off the 3M tape right where the electrical tape ends. So all I had to do was peel off the electrical tape instead of the 3M sealant tape, because once activated this sticks like hell.

Again, after I was done I reinstalled the rim band as a protective layer.

I did not seal the spokes with some silicone first, just the tape. And actually when you think about it, once inflated, the pressure difference at the non-sealed spoke nipples will actually press the tape against the spoke nipple, sealing it off.

Reinstalled the front, aired it up and it stand for a few hours. No Leaks.

Max is a happy biker!

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Does it ride any different? I can't judge that. I didn't change the front tire, but the rear is new. I run both at 30psi (as I've done since I got the bike and experimented with tire pressures initially). It feels smoother but it could also be the added placebos, which I made sure to add too. I'm just happy to be able to easily fix a puncture from now on, and tire changes without a tube are much easier also.

I'll keep an eye on the pressures. I totally trust the rear, but the front has to prove itself in the next few weeks.

(update, it has been a few days, and both wheels have so far been air tight.)

Protip: use an old racing bicycle tube around you tire spoons to avoid scratching the rims. Dam I wish Ducati had anodized them or just left them aluminium color.
 

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Good work. You will love it if you get a puncture as I did on the rear last time I rode the FT. !/2” self tapping screw in the rear tyre about 20km from anywhere on a sealed road in the middle of a forest with no phone reception. Pull the screw out, ream the hole, fit the plug, 5 x CO2 bottles to inflate the rear to 30psi and I was back on the road in less than 15 minutes with clean hands and not a swear word uttered.
BTW I think 30psi is to low pressure on the road. The bike feels mushy in the rear to me. I pumped the tyre up to 36psi at the first place I came to with an air compressor.
 

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On a Desert Sled?
Same tyre same basic bike. I could see where 30psi would be more compliant off road but I assume that the DS would have softer suspension than the FT so that would normally make the mushy feel more pronounced. What do Ducati recomend for the tyres with tubes? From memory its 39 psi for the tubeless rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
32/32 solo riding.

32/38 fully loaded.

These tires a very tough, most likely because also meant for R1200GS and other heavy pigs
 

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If they recomend 32 then 30 is not a problem. I would ride with more on the road but thats me. I dispute the tough rating though. I have never had a good Pirelli tyre yet in terms of toughness or puncture resistance on motorcycles or cars. They are one brand I would never buy with my own money.
I do like the angles valve conversion. I don't know why Ducati don't put angles valves on all the alloy wheels as standard they can't cost any more than straight valves at the factory level.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I know for a fact they're not very pliable (just removed/installed a set). Most likely just the sidewall, and not the surface. Don't know about puncture resistance. (knock on wood, I don't have many punctures anyway)

Apparently the twin sister of the Pirelli STR are the Metzeler Karoo Street, which are found to be not so puncture resistant as well. But that's the price you pay for a comfortable tire I guess.
 

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Please update us along the way, Max. Hope this works out as it seems to be a much easier method than some of the others I've read about.

Sarah
 

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Nice job Max. I was just wondering the other day, who might make a nice, gold, cast wheel for the DS. Two sets of rims would make for instant Super Moto mode. Tubeless spoked rims would have been nice from the factory. Thanks for posting.
 

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Yep BMW have a spoke set that are cross spoked to the edges of the rim and therefore - Tubeless = NICE... the use them on the R9T's Urban GS etc... would have been nice on this bike.

I love the gold rims though.
Everything else on this bike is just so right - the suspension ( which BMW cheaper out on - non adjustable etc on the R9T ) the ride height - the tires - the look etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
No offense, I love the engineering behind the Kineos, but I find them so ugly. They add a lot of "visual clutter". More than my eyes can handle.

I rather have either a set of cast wheels in the proper sizes, or else a nice set of Woody's sealed spoke wheels. I don't even like the gold paint on my rims, they scratch way too easily.
 

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Update after the first 200 miles: trouble free. No air leaks and it feels like the tires/suspension absorb little bumps and potholes better.

Spent yesterday in the Santa Monica canyons and the bike felt better than before.

Totally subjective, well aware of that.
When I did a conversion I took the time to weigh before and after, If I remember correctly the weight difference was 1/2 kg lighter front and 1 kg rear due to the tubes having quite a heavy wall rubber.
 

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Hey Max,

Thanks for posting up your process and results.

For some reason I can't see the images you posted in the first post. Does anybody else see them?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I see, me neither lol

(I’ll update the post later, although they they weren’t very exiting)
 
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