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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Am having my wfd replaced under warranty on Tuesday at Laguna Performance Centre in Ashford, Kent.
Do I need to replace the pads and if so which ones would you guys/girls recommend?
Thanks in advance.
 

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New pads for new rotor.

The old pads will always have some unevenness which can make bedding in very very long, and can score the new disc surface.

Give EBC HH a try, I really like them. More power and much better feel than the stock ones.

Success!
 

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Just wondering this today. Sorry to hijack a bit her but anyone have to actually purchase their rotor? I bought my bike second hand, just as the warranty ran out and the rotor is warped. Curious what an OEM rotor and some pads are worth from the stealership. I went on revzilla and they are like $500+! Wtf??!
 

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Sorry no I haven’t. My front rotor started “warping” at around 2500 or 3000 miles. Not real bad, but very annoying when coming to a stop. Like unever brake power ... maybe it was just contaminated from the stock pads, but it got worse and worse. Despite repeated cleaning and the use of Scotchbrite...

By that time I switched to EBC HH pads, which gave me way more braking power, and above all, better feel/modulation.

The uneven brake performance I used to have just went away. My brakes are perfect now. Rock hard two finger braking, no pulsing. Just. Perfect. And I don’t baby them.

I seriously think the stock pads and the stock rotor are not really compatible and make the front judder after about 2500-3000 miles....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I never had an issue in 9000 miles. I don't hold the bike with front brake at red lights fyi.
Excuse my ignorance but does that cause the disc to warp (must do the same to the back brake). Some motorcycle trainers advise keeping the brake on to 'help you' if you are shunted. My man said the back one to help stop the bike flipping. BTW I don't think I hold either brake on.
On a hill though what choice do we have?
 

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Excuse my ignorance but does that cause the disc to warp (must do the same to the back brake). Some motorcycle trainers advise keeping the brake on to 'help you' if you are shunted. My man said the back one to help stop the bike flipping. BTW I don't think I hold either brake on.
On a hill though what choice do we have?
I don't know for sure if thats the culprit but I suspect the warping to be caused by uneven cooling of the rotor at red lights when it's held by the pads. It's a single rotor with a pretty large diameter so this seems plausible to me.
I always slow down with the front until I come to a halt and then switch to rear brake to stay put.
 

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denizerdem - I think that's a plausible theory. I picture a "typical" scrambler owner as someone who likes spirited cruising, who may hammer on the anchors here and there, but nothing like the kind of use a tracked bike would see. Considering that these are mid-to-high performance brakes, I was surprised (and disappointed) by the warping. I've never really punished these things (and HIGHLY doubt the PO did).

Curious - has anyone had issues with previous bikes' rotors? I've owned an dr-z400sm and an fz07 with disc brakes. 5000km on each bike with 0 issues. It's been an issue on this bike since I bought it (@1000km).
 

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I’ve had warping problems before on Hondas: CB Sevenfifty and Africa Twin 750.

The Scrambler is the only bike where switching pads made the problem go away...
 

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I did a couple track days with my car and the instructors advised us not to stay stropped with the brakes on after coming off the track, it could warp the rotors. Doubt my front rotor ever gets that hot from the street.

Just hit 2600 miles and no warp but the pads need to go. Ive used EBCs for years, sounds like the ones to get for the Scrambler too.
 

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Yeah, I heard that too, and totally makes sense.

However, I agree most of us Scrambler riders don't brake hard enough to put some serious heat in our rotors unless we practice a bunch of emergency stops in a row.
 

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Sorry no I haven’t. My front rotor started “warping” at around 2500 or 3000 miles. Not real bad, but very annoying when coming to a stop. Like unever brake power ... maybe it was just contaminated from the stock pads, but it got worse and worse. Despite repeated cleaning and the use of Scotchbrite...

By that time I switched to EBC HH pads, which gave me way more braking power, and above all, better feel/modulation.

The uneven brake performance I used to have just went away. My brakes are perfect now. Rock hard two finger braking, no pulsing. Just. Perfect. And I don’t baby them.

I seriously think the stock pads and the stock rotor are not really compatible and make the front judder after about 2500-3000 miles....
I think I'm experiencing this. Are you saying your rotor wasn't actually warped? Whats the best way to verify?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also would you change out the back pads to EBC HH's? I have never been confident in my back brake.
BTW had my new front disc replaced under warranty today BUT had to pay for the EBC's. The front brake is now working fine.
 

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I think mine was contaminated rather than warped. Localized brake pad residue maybe?

One way to check is lift your front wheel and spin the wheel. Check for runout. And use a micrometer to check thickness all the way round.

I switched to EBC HH in the rear too, but tbh I don't feel the difference with the stock pads....
 

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I've had three discs on my bike, thankfully all under warranty. It does seem to be a thing with more than a few. Now out of warranty, if it goes again I won't replace with stock disc.
 
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