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Curious what process and products my fellow DS owners use to maintain their bikes shine after a ride through dusty and muddy terrain. I doubt it will ever be as sparkly clean as it was when I brought it home from the showroom, but I'd like to at least try.
  • Is there any maintenance that should be performed to the front fork lowers (lubrication)?
  • Spokes and rims - I've read of them corroding seemingly prematurely. Ideas on how to prevent corrosion.
  • Engine and exhaust- removing baked on mud.
Thanks for your input!
 

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Hello

For the front fork, the only maintenance is to clean as often as possible the mud and dust that may try to enter in the spi gaskets.

Spokes and rims : I've been told that water is the best way to wash them without any risk for the yellow anodization.

Baked on mud removal : water and brush, on a cold engine, is a good way to remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the feedback vincelp. Pretty much what I do to my four wheelers and side by side.
 

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Curious what process and products my fellow DS owners use to maintain their bikes shine after a ride through dusty and muddy terrain. I doubt it will ever be as sparkly clean as it was when I brought it home from the showroom, but I'd like to at least try.
  • Is there any maintenance that should be performed to the front fork lowers (lubrication)?
  • Spokes and rims - I've read of them corroding seemingly prematurely. Ideas on how to prevent corrosion.
  • Engine and exhaust- removing baked on mud.
Thanks for your input!

hi snowback... gettin' my 'sled regularly covered in thick mud at the moment... i'm no expert, so i can't get all techy about it, but i use something called ACF50... started using it on my bikes about 5 years ago, lots more info on the web about it if you want to investigate further... briefly tho': start with clean bike, cover tyres and brakes with old towels (important to do that - you don't want uber slippy stuff on there) and essentially spray everywhere (engine, electrics, frame, exhaust etc), on a microscopic level it bonds into and coats everything with a layer of lubricating, anti-corrosive, muck proof, waterproof, slightly oily initially, substance... wipe off the excess, smells a bit lush when you ride off next, but the next time the bikes filthy, a watery hose down reveals your sparkly bike again... it's ideal winter prep stuff for your bike, re-apply now and again, not a hassle, and you stay corrosion and embedded crud free... happy days :)
 

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I suggest you use ACF-50 on your wheels anyway, else the spokes will rust...

Yes, even here Caligoodweatherfornia. :apologetic:
 

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I suggest you use ACF-50 on your wheels anyway, else the spokes will rust...

Yes, even here Caligoodweatherfornia. :apologetic:

duh... yeah, of course, thanks for pointing that out dude, i forgot to mention - the rag i use to clean up the excess ACF50 from the rest of the bike, is used to wipe round the wheels/spokes...
 

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About once a week: High pressure cleaner -- Muc off fast action bike cleaner -- high pressure cleaner -- air compressor for drying --soft towel

Once a month or so I will use some soapy water and a sponge after step 2.
 

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About once a week: High pressure cleaner -- Muc off fast action bike cleaner -- high pressure cleaner -- air compressor for drying --soft towel

Once a month or so I will use some soapy water and a sponge after step 2.

...certainly sounds quicker Leismo ;) probably just my OCD's about the molecular state of the exposed surfaces of my 'sled sends me down the ACF50 route... bit envious of your compressor for drying i must say :)
 

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...certainly sounds quicker Leismo ;) probably just my OCD's about the molecular state of the exposed surfaces of my 'sled sends me down the ACF50 route... bit envious of your compressor for drying i must say :)
Leaf blower, works great, low-ish pressure but high & wide volume. Works a treat without the risks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ACF50 on the way. Thanks for the tips everyone.
 
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I have LPS-3 corrosion inhibitor. How does that compare to ACF-50? I have used some LPS-3 and wondering if I should switch to ACF-50 even though I have plenty LPS-3 left in the can. Also, what is your feeling about using these products on the chain?
 

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I don't know if LPS-3 works or not, I've never used it.

However, I'm pretty sure anything works better than nothing. And you can easily check if LPS-3 works for you, can you? Just clean the rear wheel and see if the spokes are still pristine....
 

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I have LPS-3 corrosion inhibitor. How does that compare to ACF-50? I have used some LPS-3 and wondering if I should switch to ACF-50 even though I have plenty LPS-3 left in the can. Also, what is your feeling about using these products on the chain?
hiya... i haven't used the LPS-3 so from that perspective i can't advise... all i can observe for myself is that the ACF-50 appears to be a stunning anti-corrosive/muck-shifting wonderlube... sorry, i'm a bit of a fan.... currently slipping into winter here in rural Wales UK, rain, ice, salted roads and acres of mud - my sled has been getting filthy, every couple of hundred miles i clean it back to that initial layer of ACF-50, it's like brand-new condition again under all that dirt etc. ...it's obviously some sort of ultra-penetrating lubricant too, so i could see it lubing a chain, it's a bit wet though, probably flings off easily... i use a chain wax myself... but it does leave a satisfyingly oily surface to everything, that i guess is what all the mud/salt/sand sticks to down to a microscopic level and is subsequently so easy to clean off.
 

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There is no ACF-50 in shops here so i want to purchase it from ebay (paying second price for shipping). Which packaging you can advise - pressurised spray (pair of cans) or hand pump with quart bottle of extra liquid? I think liquid is more cost effective and easier in shipping (pressurised cans are banned for airmail).
More than corrosion blocker i need something for simplifying washing procedure.
 

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I'm pretty sure both will work just as good.

You could even just use spray-on vaseline, anything is better than bare metal imho.
 

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My washing routine for all of my bikes is;

On a cold bike/engine lower pressure washer (1750psi) pure water.
Blow dry with compressed air.
Final dry cloth wipe down of body panel type surfaces, windscreen, dash, mirrors.
Often the wheels need more wipe down with a rag if they have much brake dust build up.

Then preferably ride it a bit to warm up things to dry off the areas you can't reach.
 

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By pressure washer standards that's pretty low. It's the small electric type. Commercial wash bays are more like 3,000 psi.

I don't put the wand right up against the bike, it's typically about 1.5 ft away or so except for maybe blasting off a muddy skid plate from the bottom.

I've never found water intrusion in wheel bearings, suspension linkage etc.
 

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There is no ACF-50 in shops here so i want to purchase it from ebay (paying second price for shipping). Which packaging you can advise - pressurised spray (pair of cans) or hand pump with quart bottle of extra liquid? I think liquid is more cost effective and easier in shipping (pressurised cans are banned for airmail).
More than corrosion blocker i need something for simplifying washing procedure.
Both work, but place ACF can/pump in boiling water before you start. Just makes it easier to apply and a little less gloopy......
 
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