Ducati Scrambler Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So everytime it rains i have some standing water inside the fuel filler cap, seems the water does not drain away.
I had some rust on the bolts so took off everything and removed the rust and repainted it but now water still does not drain away.
I see that there are 2 holes that are connected to 2 tubes inside the fuel tank. Is this where the water is supposed to drain out ?
first pic is from my bike, second from some else, this problem seems to happen quit often.
I also noticed my filler cap does not have an oring on the outside of it while some models seem to have it, My bike is a 2015 icon.Is it supposed to have an oring ?
1.jpg
2.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
Mine does this on and off - it's a real pain in the arse. I've had it back to the dealer and they've sorted it for me as I didn't fancy messing around with the tank. I did try a couple of times to unblock the drain pipe with a fine wire to no avail. BEWARE: I was told if water gets back into the fuel pump it can get expensive so I would sort this ASAP.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Mine does this on and off - it's a real pain in the arse. I've had it back to the dealer and they've sorted it for me as I didn't fancy messing around with the tank. I did try a couple of times to unblock the drain pipe with a fine wire to no avail. BEWARE: I was told if water gets back into the fuel pump it can get expensive so I would sort this ASAP.
Edit, I checked and the drain hole on the left side (when sitting on the bike) and it is not blocked but the one on the right seems to be. Are they connected or is the one the right for venting gasoline fumes ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Edit, I checked and the drain hole on the left side (when sitting on the bike) and it is not blocked but the one on the right seems to be. Are they connected or is the one the right for venting gasoline fumes ?
How did you check that it was not blocked? There is a small piece of tubing that connects to the tank and then runs all way around the bike to the left side under the shifter. The line may be kinked under the tank, or somewhere else, on its way down to the shift lever.

On the bottom of the tank, near the front, you will see 2 lines, one with a small diameter and one with a large diameter. The small one is the drain, the large is the breather. Neither should be blocked or kinked. In order to see these tubes, you will probably have to take your seat off, and then undo the 2 8mm bolts at the rear of the tank, and simply lifting the rear up. Be careful not to let the tank hit the frame up near the triple clamp.

I would honestly suggest freeing the line from the rubber "clasps" near the shifter, and blowing into them... Not hard, but enough to be able to tell whether or not it's blocked. Someone on here tried using compressed air on the drain hole (at the tank) and blew the tube off the bottom of the tank. I would HATE to try and put that little tube back on. If you can't blow through the line, then it is blocked or kinked somewhere. I would also suggest doing this with the cap closed, in case there is some dirt or debris in the line, it won't fall directly down into the actual fuel. Either that, or open the cap and stuff a rag in the filler hole.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
817 Posts
I've had this issue a lot. Clearance underneath the tank for the drain and breather lines is VERY limited.

Even getting the bikes back from main dealerships and decent mechanics, they are usually pinched somewhere, blocking the pipe. My current bike is currently suffering from a vacuum build up in the tank, which im sure is a pinched pipe following it's most recent service.

Bike has the same signature rust on the left of the inner fuel opening, meaning the drain pipes are or have been blocked too.

Only thing you can do is undo the back of the tank and try to make sure the pipes are not squashed anywhere. It's very difficult to avoid, even by experienced mechanics, there is just so little space under there.

I became a victim of both pipes being blocked while in France. Drian pipe blockage meant in heavy rain I had a build up of water inside the petrol cap. Then when I stopped to fill up with fuel, opening the cap released the vacuum build up which sucked in all the water into my tank. 40 miles later my bike began coughing and spluttering and could barely run. Thankfully a fresh tank of fuel resolved it.

Check your lines for pinches or kinks or have your service technician correct it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
981 Posts
I sucked in all the water into my tank. 40 miles later my bike began coughing and spluttering and could barely run. Thankfully a fresh tank of fuel resolved it.
Methylated Spirits is the answer.
Water and fuel don't mix so when the bike is stationery all the water is on the bottom and the fuel floats on top of the water. The fuel pump pick up is of course at the bottom. Putting Meths into the tank is firstly harmless to the engine and secondly breaks down the surface tension between the water and the fuel and allows the two to mix so the water passes through the engine and out the exhaust as steam. A very old trick but one that is still relevant. I would use around 300ml of Meths in a full tank.
No water at all is of course best but if you do end up with water in there it is way easier to tip some Meths in than it is to drain the tank or rebuild the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Only thing you can do is undo the back of the tank and try to make sure the pipes are not squashed anywhere. It's very difficult to avoid, even by experienced mechanics, there is just so little space under there.
Both of my tubes from the bottom of the tank were routed to the right side of the frame, and then looped around the wires, and then ran down to the shifter. I re-routed the lines to just go directly to the left of all the wires at the triple clamp, and THEN they went down beside the tank to the shifter. The stock routing (at least on my bike) made no sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
817 Posts
Both of my tubes from the bottom of the tank were routed to the right side of the frame, and then looped around the wires, and then ran down to the shifter. I re-routed the lines to just go directly to the left of all the wires at the triple clamp, and THEN they went down beside the tank to the shifter. The stock routing (at least on my bike) made no sense.
Might take a look at doing the same. All the tubes end up on the left of the bike bundled together, makes no sense for them to start on the right hand side?!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Might take a look at doing the same. All the tubes end up on the left of the bike bundled together, makes no sense for them to start on the right hand side?!
Exactly. IDK why mine were routed this way, but I spent 10 minutes getting them to the left of all the wires, and haven't had any vacuum in the tank since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
That rust problem is bizarre. I am betting you have pinched hoses and that water, and fuel overflow, aren't able to escape...
My bike has factory paint dots all over the nuts and bolts to tell if it has been tampered with for warranty I guess. If yours has the same and the paint doesn't align then your tank has been lifted and could have pinched hoses.

To clean the tank pipes from the top (inside the tank) I thought of using appropriate sized pipe cleaner or bottle brush.

To test - With the tank open the drain hose (the narrower diameter hose) will be very easy to blow through (providing you don’t have a block). To know which is which, put your finger over the left hole on the tank and blow through any hose. You will know you are holding the drain hose if you are not be able to blow through it. Release your finger and it should blow easily. Or just get an ear dropper, fill it with fuel and squeeze it down the left hole. if it is not blocked fuel should end up on the floor.

The breather hose (the wider diameter hose) always feels tighter than the drain hose as it has to pass through a device I talked about in this post (https://www.scramblerforum.com/thre...ng-headlight-and-coughing-urban-enduro.38521/), but you can still blow through it.

The comments on this forum are true. Not only do mechanics kink the hoses, but in my case they forgot to connect them at all! serious!

Not knowing your mechanical confidence I’d hate to encourage you to do what I did, but I undid all 4 blots that hold the tank in and was able to twist the tank to the right side of the bike and quite easily re-connect some new hoses that I ordered from Ducati. If you attempt it be sure the remove the plastic cover at the top of the tank. It is only help in by 4 rubber bushes, it pulls off easily. (tip when replacing the plastic cover, be sure you put a finger behind the rubber bushes as to not push them out and lose them like I did… had to order one from Ducati….)



Jooooosh – what symptoms do you have on your bike when hose is pinched? Coughing, jerking like it is running on one cylinder? Actually, I'd like to ask that question of everyone???

Love the metho tip K1w1. I will def try that as my bike still coughs and jerks occasionally even after I replaced the hoses…Thus the reason for asking the question above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
817 Posts
Jooooosh – what symptoms do you have on your bike when hose is pinched? Coughing, jerking like it is running on one cylinder? Actually, I'd like to ask that question of everyone???
No side affects from both hoses being pinched other than water around the cap not draining and the vacuum building up in the tank, so could sometimes be a bit of extra effort to open the fuel cap... depending how long between fill ups.

fuel pump seems perfectly able to overcome the slight vacuum generated, never had any issues affecting the ride.

biggest concern with the vacuum forming was it pulling the standing water that can’t drain from inside the cap, into the tank. Rains a lot here, so quite common for the bike to be wet.

can’t say for certain but pretty sure that was the cause of the engine dying on me in France on my last Scrambler a few years ago. Multiple fill ups in heavy rain and my bike cutout on the Autoroute. Fresh tank of fuel and it was fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
817 Posts
This is what can happen when your fuel pump is 'perfectly able' to overcome the slight vacuum generated.

View attachment 41697 View attachment 41699
haha wow! That’s pretty extreme.
Guess it’s a possibility on the Scrambler but doubt it would happen due to the shape of the tank. Plus it’s only around 100 miles between fill ups, so doesn’t get that long to build up.

I got around it the issue by just opening the cap periodically after riding. Until I had time to life the tank and wiggle the pipes free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,565 Posts
haha wow! That’s pretty extreme.
Guess it’s a possibility on the Scrambler but doubt it would happen due to the shape of the tank. Plus it’s only around 100 miles between fill ups, so doesn’t get that long to build up.

I got around it the issue by just opening the cap periodically after riding. Until I had time to life the tank and wiggle the pipes free.
The shape of the Scrambler tank (relatively flat behind side panels) only means it will go in at the sides instead and it will create a vacuum almost as soon as the fuel begins to get used, the 100 mile range is irrelevant. I think you kind of answered the question by saying you got around the issue by opening the cap periodically. Those that don't click onto the problem could have a bigger issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,106 Posts
On a Scrambler the bottom side of the tank will deform first. And, yes, it does happen if the vent lines are blocked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
908 Posts
I have an 1100. I removed the tank for painting and the two pipes came off when I lifted the back of the tank. My question is, does anyone know which way round they go as it’s not obvious. I’ve done the blowy thing and the one with the larger bore is clear the smaller bore clear with restriction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I found some water drops in my filler cap today, after hearing a really weird sound on shut off, that I tracked down as not happening with the fuel cap open. I wiped away the drops and the sound went away. Great!

I then did some googling and found threads like this one, so went to test whether my drain tube was blocked. I opened the cap and plugged the tank with tissue paper, and when I blew through the hose some droplets appeared in the filler cap - so, not blocked.

HOWEVER! If I put the tissue paper up to the side hole, not the round vertical one, (you can see in the first picture the round hole has a channel that leads to the side, where there is another hole), the paper would draw water slowly from it. I did this 10s of times until I lost the will to live. Now, is that side hole draining water from between the tank and the filler cap, or is there another tube behind it that is blocked? Because as I understand it, the straight cut tube is for draining the cap, and the breather has a flattened end, at least on my bike, (Scrambler Icon 2017).

Any help is super appreciated! 😬
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hi all

So I was cleaning the bike yesterday and when I'd finished I noticed water pooling around my fuel cap. Stupidly I opened the cap only see what seemed like gallons of water flowing in to my tank!!

To cut a very long story short; I syphoned as much fuel out as I could, unbolted the tank and released the fuel lines (push the outer ring up toward the tank, hold it there then pull the insert the opposite way and it should come off) I then flipped the tank upside down and opened the cap to remove as much of the dregs as possible.

With the tank off I noticed two things, first one of the drainage holes was totally gunked up:
46646


And second, both drainage pipes were kinked over and split. I chose to squirt WD down the drainage hole in the tank at the cap, then with a length of tube I blew it through which resulted in this rusty gunk firing out:
46647


I trimmed the pipes and diverted them closer to the top yoke behind the air intake, which is logical really seen as how the drainage holes in the tank point in that direction and not straight down:
46645


With the drainage pipes trimmed and rerouted, fuel lines, earth and power supply reconnected I re-attached the tank and poured in a bottle of Liqui Moly Fuel Protect which is a water inhibitor and then 10ltr of fuel, shook the bike about to mix it up and started her up and all seems fine.

I hope others find this useful
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top